A few years ago, we visited Bolzano for lunch.
Twenty-one days and all of Northern Italy to explore left us with little time to take in a city. A stroll and lunch let us soak up a bit of atmosphere.
On this particular morning, we drove north from Mantova (you might remember it as Mantua from Shakespeare). The Dolomite Mountains soared above us as we got further north. The slopes are dotted with regal castles and churches perched on the steep sides.
We arrived in Bolzano and parked in one of the large parking structures just outside the downtown area. A stroll led us to the city center, where we found a café with outdoor seating and a view of the Duomo di Bolzano.
It was a wonderful stroll and a great lunch, but we left wanting more. Thanks to Susannah of Vigneto Communications, I had a way to fill my longing for the region remotely.
#ItalianFWT
Our Italian Food, Wine, and Travel writers’ group is sipping Italian Alpine Reds and Whites this month. Thanks to Susannah, I had a few reds courtesy of Kellerei Bozen in Bolzano to taste and Pair.
You will find my colleagues’ articles at the bottom of the post. Some may have the same wines, some different, but they will always have interesting takes on these wines.
Cam of Culinary Cam will lead us; you can find her invitation article here.
Where we are in Italy!
When discussing Italian Alpine Wines, we look to the North and the Italian borders with the Alps.
In particular, I am visiting Alto Adige in North East Italy. You will hear the overall area called Trentino-Alto Adige, but Trentino is the lower part. Here we are in what is called the Süditrol. Places and things often have more than one name here, one in Italian and one in German.
This region, which sits on the border with Switzerland, has often blended Italian and German cultures. This is evident in language and cuisine. 70% of the region is German-speaking, but the entire area is bilingual.
Currently, the vines of the region, which cover just 5,800 hectares, comprise 65% white wines and 35% red wines, with over 20 varieties. The quality here is high, with 98% of the production under DOC regulations!
You might be surprised that here in the North, near the Alps, you find a land of Mediterranean-style red wines. You might first think of Alpine Whites, but up to about 25 years ago, this was the land of red wine.
Bolzano and Florence are two of the warmest cities in Italy in the summer! Bolzano sits in a volcanic basin, so the warm air flows to the bottom. With the slopes, you have comfortable breezes that keep the vineyards cool and lower disease pressure on the vines. The mountain slopes also have wide diurnal shifts (the difference between daytime and nighttime temperatures). This helps the grapes ripen slowly.
This is also a place where wines are typically labeled by variety. This is in the German Style, which is rare in the rest of Italy.
Kellerei Bozen
Kellerei Bozen is a case in point on the names of places in this part of Italy. This Co-op winery goes with its German name, Kellerei (for Cellar) and Bozen (for Bolzano), although you will find it written in some places as Cantina rather than Kellerei.
We spoke with Matthias Messner, the Director of Kellerei Bozen, via Zoom with a group of wine writers about their wines.
The winery is a Cooperative formed from the merger of 2 other cooperatives. In 1908, 30 growers founded the Gries Cooperative. In 1930, 18 different growers formed the St. Magdalena cooperative. In 2001, the two merged to combine resources.
The winery is a stunning work of art that opened in 2018. It received the Ökoinstitut Alto Adige certificate of sustainability. The winery is the large cube visible in the terraced vineyards. This building is translucent and resembles a vast vine leaf, with golden veins visible through its structure. Behind and below is the rest of the production facility, set into the mountain to allow for climate control; it also enables gravity flow for the wine, which is energy-conscious and gentle on the wine.
Beyond this, they incorporate biodegradable material, green manure, and only organic fertilizers.
Today, Kellerei Bozen has 224 members with a total of 350 hectares of vines planted.
The Red wines of Kellerei Bozen
A bit of background on the red grapes of the region
Schiava (Vernatsch)
St. Magdalener (Santa Maddalena) has vineyards on the hills above Bolzano, and the area is known for Schiava, which you will also hear refered to as Vernatsch.
Schiava is a family of grapes, and they can often be very light with low tannins. Here in St. Magdalener, they lean more savory. You will find violets and fresh berries!
Lagrein ( this will become a theme.)
DNA analysis showed that Lagrein was a cross between Teroldego and some other grape. Here in Alto Adige, they say it is a cross between Schiava & Teroldego, which they call Mittervernatsch.
These grapes thrive here between 200 and 300 meters above sea level.
Wines from these grapes are deeply colored and have “robust” tannins. Think of these wines as velvety and spicy with fresh dark berries.
Blauburgunder (Pinot Nero)
You are familiar with this one I’m sure.
*Disclosure: These wines were received as media samples. No additional compensation was received and all opinions are my own.
Kellerei Bozen Huck am Bach 2023 St. Magdalener
This is a blend of Schiava and Lagrein, grown in the Santa Maddalena (or St. Magdalener) zone above Bolzano on hills and steep slopes. These vines range from 250 to 500 meters above sea level. (That is 820-1640 feet, to put it in perspective).
Here they often refer to Schiava as Vernatsch. This is the oldest Consorzio of Protection in Italy, founded in 1923 (although Chianti Classico has tried to claim this title, as they celebrated 100 years in 1924) The St. Magdalener DOC was actually founded before the Alto Adige region.
This is a traditional everyday wine in this area, which is primarily (90%) Schiava and 10% Lagrein, both from the Huck am Bach vineyard that is just 5 hectares. The soil here is gravelly.
This wine is aged in large oak vats.
My notes
Blend a bunch of the joyful Schiava with a bit of that darker, heavier Lagrein, and you will have a match made in Heaven!
The nose was filled with tart cherries and berries with savory notes, plus wafts of smoke and alpine herbs. This wine held its own for several days after opening, retaining its freshness and verve!
13% abv – $23 SRP
Kellerei Bozen Blauburgunder (Pinot Nero) 2023
The 2023 Pinot Nero is grown on the slopes of the Renon near Bolzano.
These vines grow between 500 and 750 meters (approximately 1600-2400 feet) on the Renon and in Oberleitach in St. Georgen. This variety needs to altitude to control the disease pressure.
The wine is fermented in Stainless Steel and then ages briefly in wooden barrels.
My notes
Tart red cherry notes as to be expected with Pinot Noir. Berry, sage, cranberry, anise, floral notes and a sense of walking through tall warm grasses. This is an elegant style of Pinot.
13% abv
Kellerei Bozen Perl Lagrein 2022
The name of this wine “Perl,” is for the Perlhoff site in Bolzano.
100% Lagrein, this wine ferments in stainless steel and then goes into large format oak for aging.
The vines are in Bolzano at 250 meters.
2022 was a dry year and the grapes were very ripe when they arrived at the Cantina.
My notes
Notes of mint or eucalyptus, blackberry, violets, currant, dried herbs and hay. On the palate it was more fruit forward with Blackberry and cherry juice and jammy notes. Michael sensed chococate also.
13.5% abv – $30 SRP
Kellerei Bozen Taber Lagrein Riserva 2020
This is their Riserva level Lagrein from the 2020 vintage. These vines are over 80 years old and grow near Gries in warm alluvial soils on the valley floor near Bolzano at 250 meters. These old vines produce concentrated fruit.
The wine ferments in wooden vats, then ages for a year in French barriques.
These wines are released 2 years after the vintage, and can age for 15 to 20 years.
My notes
Warm eucalyptus and alpine herbs, violets and tea with deep, rich, tart blackberries and warm chocolate and spices.
14% abv – $80 SRP
Pairing Lambchops, Canderli, and a Cabbage Salad, restaurant-style
I searched through regional dishes and came around to Canderli. I had made canderli once before, but I hadn’t refined the technique. This time, I looked forward to doing that.
I also settled on lamb as my protein, which suited the region, and a cabbage salad or slaw that would complement the German cuisine of the area.
I’ll admit, I like to dress up my dinner. So, I tested out a restaurant plating style.
Canderli
Perhaps I should explain. This is a dumpling-style dish, formed like a meatball of bread, cheese, and in our case, one based on spinach and one based on speck.
If you are unfamiliar with “speck,” it is cured and lightly smoked ham or bacon. When we visited, I returned with a slab, much like bacon. Finding it for this recipe, I had something cut thinly, like prosciutto.
The bread is soaked with milk, then the additions are put in, and it is rolled into balls to be boiled like dumplings. These are often rolled in brown butter and sage to lightly brown and coat them.
The lamb was simply seared in a hot pan and finished in the oven with chopped garlic and rosemary.
My salad consisted of thinly sliced red cabbage, carrot, and yellow pepper, dressed in apple cider vinegar, honey, olive oil, walnut oil, and garlic.
I got fancy and tried my first Parmigiano Reggiano tiles. Michael had ordered me molds. We finished with rainbow microgreens, crushed pistachios, and lemon zest.
This was heavenly, and it looked damn pretty too! (I tested a couple of different plating styles)
Some additional thoughts:
Some thoughts on climate change. Our group spoke with Matthias about his thoughts on climate change and its effects on their region. They may need to plant at a higher elevation for their white wines to keep their whites within the climate zone they require. Luckily, they have room to move up the mountains.
For the Reds, they don’t mind the heat here. A little more warmth allows them to ripen the red grapes further.
If you are looking for more information on the region and wines look to my colleagues’ articles below
Or visit the region and winery sites at:
More from the #ItalianFWT Writers
- Alto Adige Red Wines Paired with Sierra Nevada Adventures and Cabin-Cooked Meals by Culinary Cam
- Alto Adige Wine Pairings by Cooking Chat
- From a Country of Contrasts: Pinot Noir, Schiava, Lagrein at Alpine Alto Adige’s Cantina di Bolzano by Wine predator…Gwendolyn Alley
- From the Dolomites to Your Glass: Tasting 4 Alpine Reds and a Refreshing Kretzer by ENOFYLZ Wine Blog
- Head northeast for juicy Italian reds by My Full Wine Glass
- Italian Red Wines from Trentino-Alto Adige with Kellerei Bolzano by Vino Travels
- Italian Wines at Altitude by Avvinare
- Two Italian Dinners, Two Wines from the Italian Alps, and a Book Review by A Day in the Life on the Farm
- Uncorking the Italian Alps: A Journey Through Santa Margherita Pinot Grigio and Exquisite Alp Whites by Our Good Life
Lambchops with garlic and rosemary, Speck and spinach Canderli, and a Cabbage, carrot and pepper slaw
Lambchops grilled in duck fat and butter, coated with grated garlic and chopped rosemary are finished in the oven and placed on a pan sauce of red wine. Accompanied by Canderli of speck and spinach in brown butter sage and a bright slaw of purple cabbage, carrots and yellow peppers. Topped with parmesan crisps and micro greens.
This paired with red wines from Kellerei Bozen in Bolzano Italy.
Ingredients
Lamb
- 2 lamb loin chops
- 1 tbsp duck fat
- 1 tbsp butter
- 1 tsp grated garlic
- 1 tsp finely chopped rosemary
Canderli 2 ways
- 7 oz of stale bread diced
- 6 oz of mil
- pinch of freshly grated nutmeg
- Salt
- Pepper
- 1 onion diced (divided)
- 2 tbsp butter (divided)
- 2 eggs beaten (divided)
- 3 oz grated Emmentaler cheese (divided)
- 5 oz flour (divided)
- 3 oz of speck diced or julienned
- 1 handful of Italian parsley chopped
- 1 lb of fresh spinach, cleaned boiled, cooled and chopped
Cabbage Slow
- 1/2 cup purple cabbage chopped
- 1/4 cup julienned carrot
- 1/4 cup sliced yellow pepper
- 1 tbsp olive oil
- 1 tbsp walnut oil
- 2 tbsp apple cider vinegar
- 1 tbsp honey
- 1 clove of garlic grated
- sea salt
- micros greens (for dressing)
- Roasted Pistachios (for dressing
Red Wine Pan Sauce
- 1/2 cup red wine
Instructions
Cabbage Slaw
- Shred or Julien the vegetables,
- Mix the dressing and toss just before serving.
- Top with Micro greens and toasted nuts.
Canderli (This will make 24-36 so you will have extra)
- Mix the diced bread with the milk. Season with salt, pepper and nutmeg and allow to soak.
- Melt 1 tbsp of the butter in a pan, when it bubbles add half the onions, cook lightly
- then add the speck and cook until rendered.
- Remove and allow to cool.
- Melt the other tbsp of butter in a pan and repeat with the other ½ of onion.
- When it is transluscent add the chopped spinach and mix until cooked through.
- Set aside to cool.
- Divide the bread and milk mixture to 2 bowls.
- Add the cooled speck mix to one with the chopped parsley
- To the other, add the spinach mixture.
- To each add
- 1 egg beaten, 1.5 oz of Emmentaler cheese and 2.5 oz of flour.
- Mix both thoroughly and allow to rest in the fridge for 30 minutes.
- Start a large pot of water to boil on the stove. Salt it like the sea.
- When the dough is rested, wet your hands and form into ¾ to 1 inch balls.
- Drop gently into the boiling water in batches. When they float, remove them with a slotted spoon to a paper towel.
- When they are finished cooking, start a pan on the stove with butter and cook until it begins to brown. Add sage leaves, then toss the canderli into the pan in batches to coat and lightly brown.
Lamb
- Allow lamb 20 min to come to room temp.
- Pat them dry
- Mince garlic (or grate) chop rosemary
- Season with salt & pepper
- Sear the lamb loin chop in butter, olive oil, or duck fat in a cast-iron skillet until brown on each side.
- When you flip add the garlic & rosemary to infuse the butter and duck fat with the flavor.
- Bake at 400 to finish to 125 to 145 (typically 10 min for rare 14 for medium)
- Rest for 5 min.
Pan Sauce
- When the lamb chops are resting place the pan on the stove and add the wine.
- Stir to reduce and scrape up the brown bits from the bottom of the pan.
Plating
- Spoon in some of the pan sauce
- add the lamb chop on one side and one of each type of Canderli on the other.
- On top in between place some of the cabbage slaw. Top with microgreens, chopped pistachio and if you are creative, maybe some parmesan tuiles.
Notes
I got creative with this, but regardless of your presentation, this makes a delicious dish. The lamb is so easy, and the Canderli, well, the recipe makes quite a few more than you will need for these two plates. They easily freeze after you boil them!
As to the tuiles? You didn't get the recipe, because they are still a work in progress, but now that I have the silicone molds, you can expect to see me experimenting with these more often!
Robin Renken is a wine writer and Certified Specialist of Wine and WSET 3 Certified. She and her husband Michael travel to wine regions interviewing vineyard owners and winemakers and learning the stories behind the glass.
When not traveling they indulge in cooking and pairing wines with food at home in Las Vegas.
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