Have you heard of Maratheftiko? Maybe you know it by one of its other names: Vamvakada, Vamvakina, Pampakia, Mavrosportiko, or Aloupostafylo? No? Well, you are not alone. This was not a grape I was familiar with, either.
About Maratheftiko
Maratheftiko is a red grape from Cyprus. It is considered the dominant grape in Cyprus, but nevertheless, it is rare and of high quality.
To review the geography, Cyprus is an island in the Mediterranean surrounded to the north by Turkey, to the east by Syria, Lebanon, and Israel, and to the south by Egypt.
The island is about 140 miles long and 60 miles wide at its widest point, covering 9,251 square kilometers (or 5748 square miles), and holds about 1.2 million people.
Legend tells us this was the birthplace of Aphrodite, but sadly, even the goddess of love has not been able to unite this divided island. The Turkish Cypriot government controls the northern third of the island, while the lower two-thirds are controlled by the Greek Cypriots, who are internationally recognized. The UN patrols the “green line” between the two.
The name likely comes from the valley where this indigenous grape is found. Marathasa is a Valley in the Troodos Mountains of Cyprus.
About the Grape
This grape was first mentioned in 1893 by a French Ampelographer but virtually disappeared for a century. About 30 years ago, it was rediscovered, and this rare variety covers only 5% of the planted vineyard lands in Cyprus.
The berries of this grape are large, and bunches are susceptible to powdery mildew and millerandage (where the berries of the bunch do not ripen together, leaving harsh green berries in the same bunch with ripened berries. In addition, this grape (unlike most wine grapes) cannot self-pollinate, as all of its blossoms are female. To combat this, it is often interplanted with the Spourtiko grape, which flowers at the same time. So, this is not an easy variety to cultivate. But the quality of wine that it can create and its uniqueness,
About the Wine and Pairing ideas
It is made in a variety of styles. Of course, red wine is a given for this grape, but it is also made into rosé, a blanc de noir, sparkling in a variety of sweetness styles, in fresh or ripe styles, and blended into spirits!
As a red wine, it is velvety and rich with notes of dark cherry and forest berries, coffee, chocolate, and vanilla from oak aging. You will also find delicate floral notes (think violets). With all this richness, you also find fresh acidity that makes it pair well with foods.
Go with Mediterranean foods like eggplant or lamb, mushrooms, tomatoes, pine nuts, black olives, and herbs.
Now, where to find one? That’s the trick! Some smaller wine shops carry this variety. Remember, if you ask, you increase the demand!
Happy Maratheftiko Day!
Robin Renken is a wine writer and Certified Specialist of Wine and WSET 3 Certified. She and her husband Michael travel to wine regions interviewing vineyard owners and winemakers and learning the stories behind the glass.
When not traveling they indulge in cooking and pairing wines with food at home in Las Vegas.
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