Ah, Sicily. If Stanley Tucci didn’t suck you in with the beauty of this island, surely the latest season of White Lotus did!
The #ItalianFWT (Italian Food Wine and Travel) writers are kicking off the new year in Sicily! Cam of Culinary Cam leads us as we explore the grapes and wines of this island. Cam will be hosting a Facebook Live event on Saturday January 7th at 8 am! Join us if you can!
You will also find all of the articles by my colleagues’ at the bottom of this post for more exciting reading on the wines of Sicily!
Sicilian history and influences
Sicily, sitting as it does, out in the Mediterranean sea at the toe of the boot of Italy, has seen its share of invaders and travelers.
The history of the people of Sicily dates back to the paleolithic era. In the Copper Age, settlers arrive from the Aegean sea, and the Bronze Age brings Mycenaeans and the Carthaginians.
Then the Greeks arrived, followed by the Romans, the Vandals, the Byzantines, and the Arabs. The Normans and the Swabians follow them. This is when Henry the sixth is crowned King of Sicily. When he dies, the Pope sells Sicily to the King of England, who gives it to his 8-year-old son, Edmund.
When the French Pope deposes Edmund, he gives Sicily to Charles of Anjou, who is hated for his high taxes. An uprising kills many of the French in Sicily, and Peter of Aragon arrives and is named king. Spain then dominates the island.
Sicily passes to the Spanish Habsburgs, then the House of Savoy, the Austrian Habsburgs and the Bourbons, the British, and the Bourbons again.
Finally, in 1861, Sicily became part of Italy, but it was not until 1946 that Sicily became an autonomous region of Italy.
But, back to the topic of wine.
Wine and viticulture in Sicily
The arrival of the Greeks likely helped the Sicilian development of viticulture. Many wine grapes spread into Italy came through Sicily.
Today Sicily grows large quantities of wine grapes and is one of the largest wine-producing regions in Italy. Much of this wine is bulk wine, but high-quality wine on the island has been on the rise for a while. While you will find lots of International varieties, the indigenous varieties are making a resurgence.
Indigenous Grape Varieties in Sicily
Some indigenous varieties of Sicilian Wine grapes include Grillo, Inzolia, Catarratto, Nero d’Avola, Nerello Mascalese, Nerello Cappuccio, Frappato, and Nocera.
I found 2 Organic wines from Azienda Agricola Cortese. One was a blend of Catarratto and Grillo, the other Nerello Mascalese
Catarratto
Catarratto is a white grape and one of Italy’s most widely planted varieties. Used in making Marsala fortified wines, it is often overlooked for producing quality wine.
Catarratto Comune is the most common, but the Lucido and Extra Lucido, while not as widespread, are higher in quality. The name “Lucido” comes from the shiny skin of the grapes.
Catarratto Lucido has smaller bunches and berries, and of course, skin to juice ratio would mean these bunches would give you more flavor. It is known for herbal and bright citrus notes and can gain a nuttiness.
Grillo
Grillo has been determined to be a cross between Catarratto and Muscat of Alexandria. It is another component of Marsala. It creates a full-bodied wine with floral and herbal notes.
Nerello Mascalese
The grape is named for the village of Mascali on the foothills of Mount Etna. The “Nerello” part comes from Nero or black from the grape color. It thrives in Mount Etna’s volcanic soils but has spread now to be grown in other areas of Sicily. It is best with significant diurnal shifts (day to night time temperatures) so growing at altitude is helpful.
The wonderful thing about this wine is that you can enjoy it young with its juicy fruit notes or let it age into a more complex wine. It is delicious either way.
Cortese
Azienda Agricola Cortese is a sustainable winery in Sicily. Named for the previous owner Giovanna Cortese the estate was sold in 2016 to Stefano and Marina Girelli. Giovanna
The Girellis believe in organic viticulture and sustainability and champion the indigenous grapes of Sicily. The Brother and Sister come from a winemaking family in Trentino. They are based in Vittoria, near the Santa Tresa estate, which they also own.
They encourage biodiversity and look for the true expression of the grapes on these estates.
“Vineyards and vines are treated as individuals – there is no standardization.” (https://www.agricolacortese.com/en/)
Cortese Organic La Selezione Vanedda Bianco Catarratto and Grillo
A blend of Catarratto and Grillo, this wine is fermented on the skins for two days, then transferred to oak botti (foudre-sized barrels) to complete fermentation. The wine remains on its lees (the dead yeast) for seven months, giving richness and body to the wine. After bottling, the wine ages for another six months before release.
The wine poured a deeper gold than I expected and had aromatic notes of lanoline, mango, papaya, sandalwood, coconut, and vanilla.
It has a richness in your mouth with tart fruit notes of pineapple, mango, lemon, and spice notes.
13.5% abv – $21.49 Total Wine
(We have an affiliate link here on our site for Total Wine. If you decide you want a bottle of this wine and use that link to purchase a wine, I may earn a commission. That helps to support this site, so thanks! But trust me, I tasted this wine and this is my honest opinion. I wouldn’t try to steer you wrong on wine!)
Cortese Organic Nostru Nerello Mascalese Terre Siciliane IGP
While originating from Mount Etna, Nerello Mascalese is now grown in other regions of Sicily. The grapes for this wine come from vineyards 400 meters (1300 feet) above sea level. The wine ferments with frequent remontage (remontage=pumpovers) and stays on its fine lees for 6-8 months.
The Nostru Nerello Mascalese is a wine that you can tell comes from volcanic soils. This wine was deep ruby in my glass, and aromas of rich dark red fruit wafted from the glass, followed by licorice and anise. Perhaps it was the label art tugging at my brain, but I smelled desert plants, like creosote and desert sage, and a bit of blackening spice.
Dry with pronounced tannins that smooth quickly, this wine has sweet tarts, cranberry, mint, and dark black cherry juice notes.
13.5% abv – $14.99 Total Wine
(Again, if you use the link on our site to purchase this wine, I will get a commission, so thanks!)
Culinary influences in Sicily
All of the cultures we spoke of earlier had a lasting impact on Sicily’s people and cuisine.
Sicilian cuisine was influenced by the Greeks, and the Byzantines, who introduced cinnamon and cloves and improved cheese-making on the island. The Arabs introduced almond paste; the Spanish brought peppers, tomatoes, and cocoa.
With so many options, what did we pair?
We went all in on eggplant!
Eggplant, or aubergine, or in Italian “melanzane,” is used in Caponata, one of Sicily’s best-known dishes. Here is a dish influenced by the Spanish and Arab rules of the island.
There are many versions of this dish, but it is almost always based on eggplant. The recipe I used I updated from one from La Cucina Italiana.
It is a blend of onions, tomatoes, celery, pine nuts, olives, red bell pepper, capers and fried eggplant.
Caponata may be served warm or cold. It is often served with bread or, as we did, with pasta.
I tossed part of this with bowtie noodles and red pepper spread. It was delicious with the Vanedda.
La Cucina Italiana mentions that the recipe for Caponata varies, and you might find leafy vegetables, raisins, breadcrumbs, almonds, chocolate, fish, or octopus. So make it your own. (You will find the recipe below)
Parmigiana di Melanzane
Our 2nd dish was, yes indeed, Eggplant Parmesan. Based on another La Cucina Italiana recipe.
This is a simple but elegant dish of fried eggplant, layered with tomato sauce, mozzerella and Parmigiano Reggiano. (The recipe is below)
This was absolutely PERFECT with the Nerello Mascalese. The fruit in the wine, balances the salt and umami of the dish.
A side story on a couple of Sicilians I know
I happen to know a couple of Sicilians. Circus stars back in the day, doing a head balancing act with their brother Mario, my friends Carlo, and Giacomo, once graced big tops in Europe, the Las Vegas strip, and played the Moulin Rouge in Paris for a bit.
In the days after their circus act, the two went behind the scenes, and when I met them, they were working on Zumanity. Carlo ran SR and would serenade me in Italian as we waited for the show to begin. He also helped me with pronunciation as I studied Italian Wine Regions. Giacomo downstairs would tell me stories of their circus days, and about the wine and cheese he would enjoy when he got home that night.
One of the things I miss most about Zu is the people, and Carlo and Giacomo are at the top of the list.
Here is an article about Giacomo, and there is a video where he does an impromptu trick with his son Kristofer when his act, the Kristef Brothers, performed on Tú Sí Que Vales. (you might need google translate)
#ItalianFWT
Okay…I’m heading back to my daydreams of Sicily. I had better get back to working on my Italian! Someday, I will get there!
In the meantime, join me as we read through the #ItalianFWT writers’ articles on the wines they found on this Southern Italian Island.
- Aeris Etna Bianco Superiore + Clam Linguine by ENOFYLZ Wine Blog
- A Journey Across Sicily with Donnafugata by Vino Travels
- An Introduction to Sicily’s Wines and Cuisine by Wine Predator…Gwendolyn Alley
- Capodanno: Ending 2022 with an Indigenous Sicilian Grape + Spaghetti ai Ricci di Mare by Culinary Cam
- Easy Air Fryer Salmon with Chardonnay from Sicily by Cooking Chat
- Famiglia Tasca shares its love for Nero d’Avola by My Full Wine Glass
- Frappato and Biodiversity at Santa Tresa Winery by Savor the Harvest
- Sicilian Stuffed Artichokes and an Organic Grillo Wine by A Day in the Life on the Farm
- Why Sicily is One of Italy’s Top Food and Wine Destinations by The Wine Chef
- Tasca- A Sicilian Icon by Avvinare
- Sicily, in a Single Glass by Life at Table
- An Enchanting Sweet Wine: Donnafugata Ben Ryé Passito di Pantelleria DOC Sicilia by Grape Experiences
Caponata
Caponata is a Sicilian dish based on eggplant that can be eaten warm or cold. You can mix it with pasta, as we did, or serve it cold with bread and a cheese plate.
This is based on a recipe from La Cucina Italiana, but as with all caponata, it is a variation. I encourage you to find your own variation, adding leafy vegetables, raisins, breadcrumbs, almonds, chocolate, fish, or octopus. Make it your own!
We paired this with a wine from Sicily that was a blend of Catarratta and Grillo.
Ingredients
- 1 1 lb eggplant cut into ¾ inch cubes
- 1/3 cup olive oil divided
- ½ white onion finely chopped
- ½ can San Marzano tomatoes, seeded and chopped
- ¼ cup of celery heart chopped
- 2 tbsp of pine nuts
- 10 Castelvetrano olives chopped
- ½ red bell pepper seeded and chopped
- 1 tbs of capers
- ½ tbsp sugar
- ½ tbs white wine vinegar
- Salt
- 10 Basil leaves chopped
Instructions
- Place the eggplant cubes in a colander and toss with a handful of salt. Let sit for 30 minutes.
- Rinse the eggplant under running water. Squeeze out any extra liquid and dry on a towel. Fry in 4 tbsp of olive oil in batches for 5-6 minutes, turning them until they are golden on all sides. Drain on a paper towel.
- Sauté the onions in 2 tbsp of olive oil (about 5 minutes)
- Add the tomatoes, celery, pine nuts, olives, bell pepper, and capers to the onions. Cook for 3-4 minutes.
- Add the drained eggplant to the vegetables and mix.
- Add the sugar and white wine vinegar and cook another 2-3 minutes.
- Season with salt and add the basil.
- Remove from the heat and allow to cool.
- I tossed part of this with bowtie noodles and red pepper spread.
Nutrition Information
Yield
8Serving Size
1Amount Per Serving Calories 130Total Fat 11gSaturated Fat 1gTrans Fat 0gUnsaturated Fat 9gCholesterol 0mgSodium 137mgCarbohydrates 8gFiber 2gSugar 4gProtein 1g
Nutrition information isn’t always accurate.
Parmigiana di Melanzane
This is a more elegant style of eggplant Parmesan. Each serving is made individually and without all the breading. These are individual stacks of eggplant, sauce, mozzarella and parmesan that pairs perfectly with a Nerello Mascalese from Sicily.
Ingredients
- 1 1 lb eggplant, sliced into rings
- 6 tbsp of EVOO
- 1 cup of tomato sauce (your own version ideally with garlic and basil)
- 1 lb ball of smoked mozzarella thinly sliced
- ½ cup fresh grated Parmigiano Reggiano
Instructions
- Toss the circles of eggplant in a colander with a handful of salt and let sit for 30 minutes.
- Rinse with water and dry on a towel.
- Saute in olive oil in batches, adding more olive oil when needed. Make sure the eggplant is lightly brown on both sides.
- Preheat the oven to 400 degrees Fahrenheit.
- Cover a sheet pan in aluminum foil, and lay out the 4 largest circles of eggplant.
- Top each with a spoonful of sauce, a slice of mozzarella, and a pinch of Parmigiano Reggiano, then repeat until you have used up all the ingredients. The mozzarella and Parmigiano should be ontop.
- Bake until the top is golden brown, about 15 minutes.
Nutrition Information
Yield
4Serving Size
1Amount Per Serving Calories 626Total Fat 50gSaturated Fat 20gTrans Fat 0gUnsaturated Fat 27gCholesterol 100mgSodium 1228mgCarbohydrates 17gFiber 4gSugar 7gProtein 30g
Nutrition information isn’t always accurate.
References and Resources
- https://wineanorak.com/2021/10/03/the-wines-of-cortese-sicily/
- https://sicilianfoodculture.com/sicilian-history-from-conquerors-to-gastronomic-excellences-in-the-world/
- https://www.decanter.com/premium/cortese-sicily-winery-profile-404234/
- https://www.internationalwinechallenge.com/Canopy-Articles/girelli-creating-your-own-identity.html
- https://www.santatresa.com/en/
More on Sicily and other Italian Wines
- Mount Etna – The Awesome Power of active volcanos, and yes red wine with fish #ItalianFWT
- Lombardia – the overlooked region of Italy that is producing wines you need to find!
- Vermentino from Sardinia – Sunlight in a glass #ItalianFWT
- Wines of Family with Chianti Classico from Famiglia Cecchi and a Tuscan Style Ragu #ItalianFWT
Check out our book series, “Tempting Spoonfuls” available through Amazon!
Inspired by the flavors and aromas in wines, these books create “tempting spoonfuls” of flavors to pair with wines.
Robin has always had a love for spoons, with a drawer full of them in all different shapes and sizes. There is comfort in eating something from a spoon and something very sensual also.
Creating a spoon filled with flavors and aromas that will be eaten in a single bite, allowing the flavors to meld and pop in your mouth, is a joyful endeavor, and you are encouraged to make these your own.
The spoons range from savory to sweet, with something for everyone, and while they are paired with wines, they are delicious on their own.
These recipes are wonderful for appetizers and hors d’oeuvres or simple to create something delicious to spoil yourself, much like a pint of ice cream.
Each of these spoons is paired with a specific wine, and you get a bit of background on the wine, its flavors, aromas, and a bit of its story. She also includes other suggestions for wines to pair with the spoon.
The book is a feast for your eyes, with photos of each layered spoonful.
There are also photos of the wines with the elements of their flavor profile surrounding them. Those elements often inspire the pairing.
The goal is to make your mouth water and encourage you to create your own “Tempting Spoonfuls.”
“Tempting Spoonfuls – Pairing single bites with glorious wines” – Our first book paired wines from boutique wineries on the west coast, in California, Oregon, and Washington, with delicious spoonfuls.
This book is 60 pages, 18 recipes, lots of beautiful photos, and insights into some fantastic small wineries!
“Tempting Spoonfuls – small bites paired with wines from around the Globe” – This book takes us around the globe to explore 12 wine regions, a wine from the region, and then gives you a recipe for a pairing!
A slightly larger book at 104 pages, this time you learn about pairing with a type of wine from a region. Rather than a specific bottle, you can look for a style of wine from a region and feel confident that it will go well with the recipe pairing we provide. We give you 12 recipes, each to pair with a wine.
Either of these books gives you wonderful recipes to create appetizer spoons to pair with wines for a party!
Robin Renken is a wine writer and Certified Specialist of Wine and WSET 3 Certified. She and her husband Michael travel to wine regions interviewing vineyard owners and winemakers and learning the stories behind the glass.
When not traveling they indulge in cooking and pairing wines with food at home in Las Vegas.
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