Marcel Zanolari rarely takes the easy way. With Marcel, everything is an adventure. When we visited him in the fall of 2022, he was tending over 115 varieties of vines in Northern Italy’s Valtellina Valley. 100 of those varieties were PiWi varieties.
#WorldWineTravel Exploration of PiWi and hybrid wine grapes
This month the #WorldWineTravel writers are exploring hybrid and PiWi wine grapes. These are grape varieties bred from crossing difference varieties with the idea of making a new variety which tastes delicious and is less susceptible to issues with heat or cold, or to mildew or disease pressure.
We are led by Jeff Burrows of Food Wine Click. You can read his preview post here.
You will find a list of articles by my colleagues with links at the bottom of this post.
PiWi grapes?
PiWi is actually an acronym for the German word “pilzwiderstandfähig” (yeah, say that 3 times fast!), which translates to “fungus-resistant vines.” Piwi Grape Varieties originated from crossing Vitis species in France as a reaction to phylloxera. The idea was to produce quality wine with fewer pesticides needed.
Marcel Zanolari and PiWi Grape Varieties
Marcel and his father have always been passionate about sustainable viticulture. In 1973, Marcel’s father planted one of his hillside vineyards as an experimental vineyard to avoid synthetic chemicals in conjunction with the FIBL in Basel, Switzerland. After some initial success, he lost a large number of vines. They continued with the PiWi varieties; the idea was to develop vines entirely resistant to fungi and diseases.
“right from the beginning, the aim of our company was to have total resistance and over the years of these varieties piwi, without using any biological means to counteract fungal or insect diseases., also to then go to overgraft steeply sloping vineyards without needing to terrace and upset the natural geometry of the land. The other thing was to have pure winemaking without modifying or adding hints to the wine (wood, tannins, yeasts).” Marcel Zanolari 040424
Today, Marcel manages vineyard plots all over the eastern end of the Valtellina Valley, east of the Valgella sub-zone. He plants not only on the south-facing slopes, where the majority of vineyards sit, so they can soak up the summer sun. He is a rebel, and has plantings on the dark side. (Okay, just for a moment, let go of the strange juxtaposition of those words, you Star Wars fans.) The dark side is the southern side of the valley, south of the Adda River, where the land sits in the shadow of the Orobic Alps for most of the year. During a full 2 months of the year, this side of the valley will see NO sun.
In recent years, drought and extreme heat have affected the south-facing slopes, causing early ripening for the region’s primary grape, Nebbiolo.
The many parcels
In Valtellina, the average parcel size is just over ½ hectares. These steep, south-facing slopes have terraced vineyards with dry stone walls. Many older vineyards have been abandoned as the owners have become too old to tend them. Marcel tends to many of these small parcels with his team.
These parcels are scattered, which is perfect for testing the PiWi Vines. He can test a PiWi vine at different altitudes and different aspects. They began with 25 to 50 vines of each variety planted at 3 altitudes, on the valley floor, mid-way up the slope, and at their property in Teglio, which sits at 900 meters (almost 3000 feet).
He has 10 PiWi varieties in white and 80 in red. Beyond the testing, he makes wine from these grapes. All 10 white go into his Vagabondo Bianco, and the 80 red into the Vagabondo Rosso. Vagabondo is the perfect name for these wines, which he traipses all over the valley to harvest and collect.
More on Marcel
I should mention that working with these PiWi grapes is only part of what Marcel is doing. He farms biodynamically, avoiding chemicals and integrating livestock, which first drew us to meet him. Their company is also a certified B-Corporation .
Marcel is Swiss, as is his father, and he travels back and forth across the border through the Bernina Pass. (Yes, the famous pass with the stunning Bernina Express Train ride) They sell most of their wines in Switzerland, but you can find them distributed by Schatzi Wines in the US.
We met Marcel on a Press trip to the Valtellina region in late 2022, and spent part of a day with him visiting his vineyards. You can read that post here. Marcel Zanolari – Thinking outside the box in Valtellina
A few questions with Marcel on his PiWi Grapes
Marcel was kind enough to answer some questions about the PiWi grapes he works with.
Crushed Grape Chronicles: I know you are growing and testing a wide range of PiWi grapes you include in your Vagabondo wines. Could you share with me some that you think are really promising?
Marcel: In the Vagabondo Bianco, there are 18 piwi varieties (Solaris, Bronner, Johanniter, Bianca, Souvignac, Cabernet Blanc, Divona…) All the others are crosses by Valentin Blattner (Swiss hybridizer), which have no longer been multiplied by lack of demand (they were not liked in purity or not resistant enough).
Those listed at the beginning are the most promising because some have been cultivated and monitored for over 50/80 years.
For the Vagabondo Rosso, we have 80 varieties, including Cabernet Cortis, Cabernet Dorsa, Cabernet Jura, Cabertin, Pinotin, Merlotin, Divico, Pinot Regina, Prior, Termantis, Valnosia, Charvir, Termantis and Leon Millot, Chamuburcin. And many other varieties by Valentin Blattner crossed with Pinot Noir, Merlot, and Cabernet parents.
They are all promising. It always depends on the year and the altitude where they were planted.
Sidebar on Valentin Blattner and cross-pollinating to breed new grape varieties.
As I was flipping through the book “Wine Grapes” the other day (by Jancis Robinson, Julia Harding, and José Vouillamoz), it opened to a page with two grapes with strange names. This was VB 32-7 and VB 91-26-4. Both are hybrid Swiss grapes obtained by Valtentin Blattnet (VB).
Valentin is a Swiss grape geneticist, winemaker, and grape breeder who works in the Jura Mountains. Valentin aimed to create grapes resistant to disease to eliminate the need for pesticides and fungicides in this region prone to mildew.
I found a video with Valentin Blattner on YouTube, where he shows how to cross pollinate these resistant grapes. https://youtu.be/cTDShtIpRig?si=sQGJA5mCjMws0lff
Crushed Grape Chronicles: Of these varieties, where do you find each grows best? In what microclimate and soil do they thrive? I know you’ve tested them in multiple vineyards under different conditions.
Marcel: Yes, we have three testing areas, one at 380 meters on the valley bottom, the others from 420 to 790 on the slope, and more … from 800 up to 1174 at an altitude above (the) terraces (where it is) slightly flat.
Those on the valley floor at 380 lost some resistance after about 10/12 years, and downy mildew attacks increased drastically. We treat them 3 to 5 times per year using clays, sulfur, and zeolite. The same ones planted on a slope of 420/790 do very well. We manage without treatment interventions, even with difficult years. The only problem is sometimes black rot and erinosis. It depends on the weather (especially if there is a lot of rain and too much vigor in the soil).
The ones at the top are super and rarely have attacks of any kind of disease, also because they are isolated and planted in Poschiavo in Switzerland (a privileged location)
Crushed Grape Chronicles: Are there certain qualities of these grapes that make you more confident in them? Is it heat resistance or disease resistance?
Marcel: Let’s say that the older varieties, such as Solaris, Bronner, Johanniter, Bianca, and the Cabernet line, in general, … perform very well with difficult weather years. Perhaps they have a problem (with) heat, and this is where their correct positioning in the quotas comes into play. Something not to be underestimated. However, it is linked to perhaps early years and with risks of frost or late snow, which can break the growing shoots.
Crushed Grape Chronicles: What are the flavor and flavor profiles of these grapes? Are they only suitable for mixing? Or do you think any of these PiWi varieties have the potential to stand out as single-varietal wines?
Marcel: Absolutely many or almost all of them can be vinified in purity, and let’s say that on an aromatic level, they are exceptional. On some varieties, there is the difficulty of having this step on the palate; if not, then it is modified oenologically. It always depends on the basic idea of each manufacturer.
For us, it is essential to leave each wine its identity and its characteristics in order to have a “unicum” (Uniqueness) that cannot be copied and that only the terroir can express.
We have around 100 Piwi varieties, and the minimum per variety we collect is around 50/70 kg, (with) others up to 600/800 kg. Over the years, the need arises to be able to put them together because otherwise, the whole thing becomes unmanageable. In the beginning, we have them all vinified in purity, then over the years, we have understood how to do it (to blend). Now that we are “tested,” I try to put more energy into developing the animal part and safeguarding the territory. (here, he refers to integrating livestock and working to protect the land).
Crushed Grape Chronicles: Finally, I know that PiWi varieties are a legacy project started by your father. Can you share insights into what made you so passionate about these grapes and what keeps you passionate about them?
Marcel: For him, it was seeing a return to the vine without treatment and respect for the soil and territory.
He had started with the older ones like Chamburcin, Leon Millot, Clinton, Isabella, …and many others, but these always left a light note of American grapes (Foxy).
For me, these basic ideas of my father are always present, but with the fear that nowadays, with biotechnology and DNA manipulation work, it is possible to obtain, for example, a manipulated Merlot that tastes perfectly like Merlot. Another weak point is the duration of resistance or their modification to pathologies and succumbing.
In recent years, we have also had another focus: to return a little to the origins with Nebbiolo and Pinot Noir, trying to select strains that resist more, change their training system, and make the soil very fertile and varied.
Let’s say that permaculture and the return to the ungrafted root (no grafting) are giving excellent results, and there is everything to follow in the coming years.
I am convinced that PIWIs are an excellent temporary solution but not the only solution.
A mix of the above is, in my opinion, the solution.
100 years ago, one or two treatments were done on Nebbiolo with a little sulfur and copper.
Here… This is our focus, a bit like what we want to carry forward with (adding) our animals and return to their natural resistance.
The wines of Marcel Zanolari
I did have the opportunity to taste these wines while in Valtellina. Marcel does not make the Vagabonda Bianco in the amphora every year. We tasted the fermenting juice in stainless steel and then were able to taste a bottle of the amphora wine when we tasted it with him later that day. It’s incredible the difference the vessel can make. Both wines were delicious, but the amphora wine was deeper in color, richer, and more textural with 1 year of skin contact. Marcel does look to add more amphorae to his line.
The Vagabondo Bianco, made in stainless steel, had notes of lychee and roses, orange, and herbs. This had great acidity and full fruit notes.
The 2018 Vagabondo Bianco in amphorae had aromas of winter spices. Gwendolyn and I were tasting, and she mentioned celery seeds, like in turkey dressing. This wine was very savory. It is made in the “orange wine” style, and if you taste it blind, you might think it is red because of the texture of this wine.
We were tasting at La Perla Marco Triacca, where we enjoyed lunch. This wine paired beautifully with the small crocks of cooked cabbage and cipolotti (spring onions) topped with trout.
Marcel and his father’s experimentation and testing are important to move these grapes forward. This is yet another way that regions can work to remove the chemical pesticides that, while they protect the grapes, kill the soil. (And you know we are passionate about soil here at Crushed Grape Chronicles!)
If you would like more information on Marcel and his wines you can visit his site http://www.marcelzanolari.com/en/
World Wine Travel Writers and Hybrid Grapes
As promised, the following are links to our posts on the subject of wines made from hybrid grapes.
• Camilla at Culinary Cam shares “A Taste of the Mid-West: Double-Decker Butter Burgers & A Multi-County Marquette from Wisconsin + Fun House Potatoes from Minnesota”
• Terri at Our Good Life shares “Missouri’s Most Popular Hybrid: the Norton”
• David at Cooking Chat shares “Exploring Marquette Wine Pairings”
• Linda at My Full Wine Glass shares, “Vidal ice wine brings back memories of NY Finger Lakes”
• Martin at ENOFYLZ Wine Blog shares “A Taste of Mad Marvlus Wines”
• Wendy at A Day in the Life on the Farm shares “Enjoying the Hybrid Wines of Old Mission Peninsula“
• Gwendolyn at Wine Predator shares, “Oh, hi, hybrids! Adam Tolmach experiments with UC Davis to replant his Ojai Vineyard”
• Jeff at Food Wine Click! shares “Marquessa – a Marquette Hybrid Appellation“
Robin Renken is a wine writer and Certified Specialist of Wine and WSET 3 Certified. She and her husband Michael travel to wine regions interviewing vineyard owners and winemakers and learning the stories behind the glass.
When not traveling they indulge in cooking and pairing wines with food at home in Las Vegas.
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