Paolo Pasini is a third-generation winemaker at his family winery in Valtènesi, Italy. Located in the Raffa di Puegnago region of the Province of Brescia on the western coast of Lake Garda in Northern Italy, the winery sits on one of their vineyards.
Paolo greeted us as we arrived at the winery and led us through the olive trees into the vineyard. Just an hour before we arrived, they had finished harvest.
The company is called Pasini San Giovanni. Pasini is the name of his grandfather Andrea, who began the company in 1958; San Giovanni is the name of the small place, the ancient building where they started their winery. This connects the family with this place of origin.
From their site
“Our company has a compound name, linked to both the Pasini family, that created and always led the company, and the local place name where Cascina San Giovanni — our first privately owned production unit — stands, an area known as San Giovanni and linked to the church of San Giovanni located in Palude, a district of the town of Puegnago, not far from Raffa.” https://www.pasinisangiovanni.it/en/past-present-and-future/
While he is the winemaker here, he is not alone in this family business. His cousins, Luca, Sara, and Laura, this 3rd generation, run the winery together.
As we walk, he points out a 400-year-old mulberry tree used for silkworms. The tree is vast, and around it lies the old winery, now used as an event space.
The winery has 1000 square meters of photovoltaic panels, added in 2009, making it self-sufficient. In 2014, they looked into their carbon footprint. The results caused them to convert to organic farming, move to organic fertilizers, cover cropping, lighter bottles, and eliminate redundant wrapping and packaging.
Their production here is 10,000 bottles annually, which includes wines of Valtènesi and Lugana, which focus on the grapes Groppello and Turbiana. The region’s indigenous grapes are used in multiple methods, with the rosé wines of Valtènesi, red wines, and Metodo Classico wines. The same is true with the Lugana wines, which are made in both still and sparkling.
This was not the perfect day for Valtenesi. Clouds had rolled in, making the sky grey and visibility lower than usual. Usually, Paolo tells us, you can see the lake. The region has a unique microclimate due to the lake. Pasini sits on a hill 145 meters above sea level. The lake itself sits at 70 meters above sea level. The mountains behind the vineyard reach 400 meters at their highest point. So, the region sits relatively low.
He led us into the winery, a modern building, square with insets in red and sand. Very geometric. The entrance was softened by a pergola of vines. Again, the contemporary and the traditional meet. Of course, these grapes, while edible, were primarily for decoration. “Americana,” he called them a table grape, with ripe bunches hanging beautifully down.
Tasting the fermenting Valtènesi wines of Pasini San Giovanni
These Chiaretto, or rosé wines are traditionally the wines of one night, meaning they spent just one night on the skin to get their light ballet slipper pink color from the grape. Paolo says that now, the grapes seem to shed their color into the juice much more quickly.
They first made the RosaGreen rosé in 2014, a wine made from organic Gropello grapes. They left the juice on the skins for 22 hrs to get the delicate color. This year, to create this wine and get the same color, they had just 3 hours of skin contact. “Something is changing,” he says. The skin contact is so short now, “it’s almost a blanc de noir.” This is a change in less than 10 years.
We stroll out from under the pergola and around the building to the crush pad.
At the time, Paolo was the Vice President of the Lugana DOC and the Vice President of Valtènesi. Never a president, always a Vice President,…he jokes as we make our way to the large stainless steel tanks where the wines are fermenting. This is in an open but covered area just outside the winery building.
One at a time, Paulo turns the spigot and gives us each a taste of the fermenting juice.
While the typical recipe for Chiaretto here in Valtenesi is Gropello (min 30%), Barbera, Marzemino, & Sangiovese, the wine we taste is 100% Gropello for their RosaGreen.
This wine is the lightest and most delicate rosé they produce. It has been fermenting for around 10 days and has a pink and milky appearance in the glass, with a bit of foam from the fermentation process. As Paolo tastes it, he searches for good acidity and vibrancy in the fermenting juice. While the wine is changing as it ferments, Paolo is looking for vitality and liveliness.
During this harvest, they picked early to retain the acidity. They had been having such a hot season they did not want to let the sugars get too high. Typically, they harvest in the middle of September for rosé, but in 2022, they harvested at the end of August, about 15 days earlier than usual. Keep in mind that this was after the summer of extreme drought in Northern Italy in 2022 when the fountains in Milan were turned off to conserve water, and the Po River ran almost dry in many areas.
The wine was cloudy because it had not yet been racked (the process of pulling the fermented juice off the solids, which would be the lees or yeasts that, having eaten their fill of the sugars, have dropped to the bottom of the tank. Racking the wine keeps the reductive odors from building up.
We follow him into the tank room and taste the typical Chiaretto blend of Gropello, Sangiovese, Marzemino, and Barbera from another tank. The color here is deeper and richer, leaning more into the salmon tones. This wine has been in the tank for perhaps 6 days.
This had melon notes on the nose, like cantaloupe. Much of this is aromatics from fermentation; the wine will be very different.
The next tank is primarily Barbera, and you can see the difference in acidity. The color also is different, a bit more violet. This gives the “nerve” to the blend.
Marzemino has always been the 2nd most grown grape variety in Valtènesi, but Barbera is now overtaking it, as Barbera brings more of the needed acidity to the wine. However, They do not make a single variety of wine from Barbera, Marzemino, or Sangiovese. Only with Gropello do they make a single variety wine.
Then Paulo let us taste a 100% Marzemino. This variety is best known in Trentino. The color here is decidedly more pink! This gives the wine more juicy, fruity notes, a sweetness, and a gentleness.
The last wine we taste is a blanc du noir of Gropello. In the DOC, Gropello can be made in the Rosé or Rosso style, but it does not cover a sparkling application. At Pasini, they have made this Gropello Blanc de Noir since 2004. The wine we are tasting is the base wine for this sparkling wine.
This will be the Centropercento Spumante Extra Brut Metodo Classico. It is the first “blanc de noirs” in Garda. As it is outside the DOC, they can call it a VSQ Vino Spumante Qualite, a Spumante Wine of High Quality.
We leave our glasses on a sink in the winery and head in to taste “the real wine,” as Juri, our guide for our day in Valtènesi, says.
We pass through the white-tiled bottling room into a darkened room with palates of their sparkling wine and a cellar room with bottles, where they monitor the evolution of the wine.
Here, there is the Ceppo 326 Rosé, a blend of Groppelo and Erbamat (another local grape variety); it is blended and made in the Metodo Classico with zero dosage. They planted the Erbamat here in 2009.
Rabbithole alert!
Erbamat
Erbamat is a white grape best known here in Brescia. It was almost extinct, but several producers in the Lago Garda region championed it. Comincioli blends Trebbiano Valtèsi with Erbamat for their “Perli” wine. They recovered and reintroduced this grape to their vineyards in 1982.
It is the 4th grape allowed in the Sparkling Franciacorta wines of Lombardia, being added to the list with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Pinot Blanc in 2017. They embraced this neglected indigenous grape in the hope that it would be advantageous with climate change as it ripens considerably later than the other varieties.
Tables of stacked wooden pallets painted red and capped with a marble top hold small lamps that light the bottles of their Chiarettos, including the Lettera C, which is their top-of-the-line Chiaretto that has won the award for the best rosé in Italy in 2022, according to Gambero Rosso, the most influential wine publication in Italy.
These are aged in Clayver (ceramic barrels)on the lees. (C for Clayver!) This wine took tre bicchieri in 2023 and 2024 and was the Best Rose in Italy in 2023.
“We would love to layer the rosé, to compress in a very subtle and long line. So, the wine is very light but super tasty at the same time. It is a different idea of a rosé wine.”
The Clayver is shaped like a pill capsule, perhaps a bit squattier. They do not taper to the end like amphorae or eggs. This shape gives a constant motion to the lees, increasing the wine’s body and mouthfeel. These are not just clay but also ceramic; there is minimal oxidation from outside to inside. (5 milligrams per liter in 1 year for oxygen exchange) making oxygen exchange close to that of a steel tank. The microoxidation is very gentle. They mix a small quantity of lees into the wine for about 1.5 years.
Mini rabbit hole
Want to know more about these vessels? (I did)
Here is a link to the Clayver site https://www.clayver.it/en/clayver/
Valtènesi rosé wine is easy to drink but full of energy at the same time. It exudes the energy of the region. It makes me think of our earlier visit to Vittoriale, the poet’s energy, and the place. (read more about that here)
We pass foudres and barriques as we head to the entrance and tasting room, where riddling racks form the walls of the hall to the door; each side has insets showcasing wines that they currently are producing on one side and historic wines their winery has produced on the other. The grapes remain the same, but the oenology and technology have changed. They create a very frank and sincere wine that is able to represent the area.
Paolo says that they, like everyone, fell prey to the styles of the 80s and 90s when all the wines were bigger and more full-bodied. Since 2000, the style has changed and is fresh, tasty, and lively!
We head out the front door and around a courtyard with stairs leading us to their private tasting room upstairs.
The view of the vineyard from the top of the stairs, I’m sure, would have been more spectacular on a clear and sunny day, but it was still impressive looking over the rows of vines to olive groves and terracotta rooftops. In the distance, you can see the dome of the Chiesa di Santa Maria della Neve.
We wander through the offices to a room at the end of the building open to the light and the views on 3 sides. A table is set with glasses and bottles.
Tasting the wines of Pasini San Giovanni
We tasted through the Il Chiaretto, the RosaGreen 2021, Lettera C 2020, and the Letera C 2019
Il Chiaretto 2021
A blend of Groppello, Marzemino, Barbera, and Sangiovese, grown in Raffa di Puegnago and Picedo di Polpenazze, Paolo blends these wines after pressing and fermentation.
The Il Chiaretto is more fruit-forward, the more ancient style of rosé. Paolo speaks of this wine as being “chewy.” This wine has more texture, and you get bitter almonds at the end. This is deeper in color from the Marzemino and Barbera, which bring more color into the wine. This wine has fruit notes of strawberry and pomegranate with hints of stone fruit and citrus like blood orange and floral notes of rose.
The other wines are 100% Groppello, which makes them lighter in color and lean more toward peach or orange.
RosaGreen 2021
Pasini San Giovanni was the first winery to make Valtènesi rosé as a single variety wine with Groppello in 2014. Groppello was produced as a single variety in the Rosso or red wine for years but not as a rosé. The traditional Chiaretto or rosé in Valtènesi has always been a blend of the 4 red grapes. In 2014, they decided to make a rosé with just the Groppello and created the RosaGreen. It is called RosaGreen because this was also their first certified Organic wine. Another reason, Paolo tells us, is that for the first two harvests that they made this wine, they rented a small vineyard on a golf course, where you could see the “Green.” This is a reminder of the tourism in this region, known as Riviera del Garda. In the summer, this area teams with tourists enjoying the lake and its Mediterranean climate.
This wine is quite floral. You almost feel as if you are drinking a white wine with the aromas on the nose. It is fresh with a beautiful sense of salinity. This is a perfect wine to pair with light fish or sushi. Juri suggests pairing this with hummus.
Lettera C 2020 & 2019
This wine is released in November, 2 years after the RosaGreen. The Lettera C is made in ceramic barrels by Clayver. This is from the old vine Groppello, planted in 1977 and 1978.
The Lettera C 2020 is light and delicate with floral notes, delicate citrus, white peach, and herbal notes of thyme.
Paolo suggests pairing this wine with white meat or pasta with mushrooms or a ravioli with mint and ginger.
We compare this with the 2019 vintage. More than just a year in time, these wines are different due to the harvest. 2020 was a cooler vintage, and 2019 was warmer. You can see a difference in the color. Paolo tells us that stabilizing the color of this wine is very difficult. Groppello is a very delicate and fragile grape variety. The rosés made with Groppello turn yellow/orange very quickly due to the anthocyanins in the skin, and they yellow quickly as they age.
The Lettera C 2020 was awarded best rosé in Italy by Gambero Rosso in 2023. This wine has a bit more fruit than the 2019, and Paolo tells us he expects this to age better than the 2019. He says this wine will drink well for 4 to 5 years but can potentially age up to 10; the 2019, he does not recommend aging past six years.
The other rosés, Il Chiaretto and RosaGreen are meant to be drunk within 3 years. But they want to show that there is potential for aging. The Lettera C shows that. The idea is to demonstrate the versatility of rosé. This is not just a wine for spring and summer. It can pair with different types of food throughout the year.
Rabbithole Alert – did I get distracted by a discussion about pasta?
Pastas of the region, Tortelli alla Zucca and Tortellini di Valeggio sul Mincio
Juri suggests pumpkin ravioli with amaretti and Mostarda, finished in butter and sage, a local dish to pair with the Lettera C. It is a variation on Tortelli alla Zucca that they make in Mantova. I look forward to trying this dish! Here’s a link to a recipe I found.
(Nope that’s not the bottom of this rabbithole)
As I researched this dish, I came across Tortellini di Valeggio sul Mincio. It is also known as “Love knot” or “Nodo d’Amore.”
Valeggio sul Mincio translates to Little villages on the Mincio, a river at the southern end of Lake Garda that flows into the Po. This is said to be the original home of tortellini. This pasta is typically filled with braised meat. It also comes with a romantic story.
The story, written and illustrated by Maestro Alberto Zucchetta, tells a tale of love and loss between Silvia, a beautiful water nymph, and Malco, a military captain. The story is a bit “ancient Little Mermaid,” but in the end, she and the Captain take to the water rather than land. A knotted golden silk handkerchief is left on the bank, a reminder of their love.
The pasta rolled thin as silk and knotted like the handkerchief honors the story. (Read the whole story in this link)
Centopercento
Metodo Classico Spumante
Extra Brut
We finish with a toast with the Centopercento100 Metodo Classico Spumante Brut. This is a blanc de noirs of Groppello! The name means 100%, as this wine is 100% Groppello.
We tasted the 2019 vintage with tirage in January 2020, disgorged in April 2022 (27 months on the lees). Lively, full of flavor and character. The nose has white flowers and peaches with a savory nutty note.
This is a stunning wine, perfect for aperitivo or fried foods, a lake fish called persico (perch) found in Lake Garda. Slice it thin and fry it. Paolo says it is perfect with this wine.
Resources and References.
The Pasini San Giovanni wines can be found in the United States through Coeur Wine in New York.
You can visit the Pasini San Giovanni website here https://www.pasinisangiovanni.it/en/home-eng/
And learn more about the Cosorzio Valtènesi here https://www.consorziovaltenesi.it/
Robin Renken is a wine writer and Certified Specialist of Wine and WSET 3 Certified. She and her husband Michael travel to wine regions interviewing vineyard owners and winemakers and learning the stories behind the glass.
When not traveling they indulge in cooking and pairing wines with food at home in Las Vegas.
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