In Northern Italy, where the eastern edge borders Slovenia, you will find an ancient grape variety that came close to disappearing.
This is an all-too-common story. As exporting wine became crucial to the survival of wineries in the latter part of the last century, many grape growers removed native vines to plant internationally recognized varieties that were well established and in high demand. It was about survival.
But some growers stood firm on tradition and championed their local varieties. Such is the story of Manlio Collavini, who is often known as the Lord of Ribolla Gialla.
Friuli and Ribolla Gialla
Friuli, or rather Friuli Venezia Giulia, is the region to the far Northeast of Italy. To its north lies Austria, to the east Slovenia, and to the south the Adriatic Sea.
The Veneto sits to the southwest, and Trentino-Alto Adige to the west.
With 7,847 square kilometres, it includes the provinces of Gorizia, Pordenone, Trieste, and Udine.
The Carnic Alps sit to the north, and the cool air from these mountains sweeps down to meet the warmer air from the Adriatic, creating a perfect region in the middle for growing and ripening grapes.
While international grapes have been planted in the region, they have retained some of their indigenous varieties, including Schiopettino, Friulano, and…
Ribolla Gialla
Ree-bola Jall-ah
This grape is best known in the Rosazzo and Colli Orientali regions and teetered on the brink of extinction.
The name means “boils yellow”. Hmmm… I’m picturing caldrons. But in truth, this refers to the color of the grape. Yellow = Gialla, and during fermentation, of course, the fermenting wine appeared to boil and bubble, so Ribolla=boils.
This variety thrives in the rolling hills of this region. It prefers soils high in minerals that are well-drained, and the Ponca soils of this region are ideal.
Ribolla Gialla ripens slowly, and the cool air of the Alps, combined with the warmer air from the Adriatic, provides perfect conditions with a diurnal shift (daytime to nighttime temperatures) that allows it the ideal window for ripening.
A bit of history:
The Italian poet Boccaccio declared this wine to be a symbol of gluttony, as it was often seen on the tables of the Italian aristocracy. This grape was the pride of Friuli until, in the 19th century, it fell victim to Phylloxera, the root louse that almost decimated the entire wine world. When vines were replanted in the region, they leaned into internationally popular varieties like Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay.
Manlio Collavini
I had the opportunity to speak with Manlio’s son, who is convinced that his father will never pass the winery over. At 85, his father is still often at the winery.
While he is known as the Lord of Ribolla Gialla, having championed this variety, he is also quite proud of his place in the history of Pinot Grigio. Here in Friuli and throughout much of Northern Italy, Pinot Grigio (or, in French, Pinot Gris) was typically made into a style known as Ramato. This is a skin contact wine that comes out a copper color, much like an orange wine. He decided to make this in the style of a white wine and was the first in Friuli to do so. Actually, only Santa Margherita in the Veneto is credited for making this style of Pinot Grigio before him.
Regarding Ribolla Gialla, there is a story of recreating history and tradition. Manlio purchased the Catemario Quadri villa in Corno di Rosazzo. This Villa was likely part of the Gramogiano castle (part of an old tunnel between the two has been discovered).
The Catemario Quadri Villa dates to the 13th century. Through disputes between the Lords of the region in the 14th century, the vineyards surrounding the Castle were cut down. Later, the Castle itself was destroyed.
In the early 1400s, the Republic of Venice took control of the area, and the Castle was rebuilt by Counts Zucco and Cuccagna. The Villa became a manor house.
In 1989, Manlio planted 5 hectares of Ribolla Gialla and Schioppettino around the Villa, replacing the vines that had been cut down in the 13th century.
It is believed that this variety originated in the Aegean Islands and was introduced to the region by the Roman Legions, who crossed Friuli.
The Turian Ribolla Gialla from Collavini
Ribolla Gialla is an ancient white grape variety from this region of Italy near the Slovenian border.
The grapes for this wine are 50% from their estates and 50% from local vineyards that they support. To them, purchasing these grapes is a way of preserving the area’s tradition and supporting the local economy.
Many local families have small vineyards. They want to keep these vineyards in the family, but the vineyards are small, and grape growing is not their full-time pursuit. With Collavini purchasing the grapes, the vineyards generate enough income for the family to maintain them.
The name Turian comes from their oldest vineyard, the historic Clò Turian vineyard.
These grapes are picked at the end of September. They macerate overnight and ferment in stainless steel.
My notes: Deep lemon in color, this wine evokes notes of lemon, unripe peach, and green herbs, grasses, and leaves. I wrote a note comparing this to the Collavini Broy and Friulano. “The wines seemed a little more classic and sedate next to the Broy and Friulano. It waltzed brightly across my tongue. This is Strauss at his finest! Elegant and flowing but bright and light on its toes.”
The Pairing – Scissor cut pasta with pesto and green beans
This year, we started a small garden in the backyard. It’s Vegas, so this doesn’t last very far into the summer. Michael had carrots and used the tops to create a basil and carrot top pesto.
This wine was deep lemon in color and played nicely off the green and slightly bitter notes of the pesto.
Our pairing was based on a recipe on “Dished” for 15-minute scissor-cut pesto pasta.
This past is simple. Mix 100 grams of OO flour with 1 egg in the food processor. When it comes together, pull it out, roll it into a ball, and wrap it in plastic wrap while you make the pesto.
Mine was already made, but you should include basil, carrot tops, grated garlic, nuts (I used pecans), parmesan, lemon juice, and lemon zest, all mixed in a food processor until it is chunky. Then, stream in olive oil until you reach the perfect consistency.
Heat a large pot of salted water, and using kitchen shears or clean scissors, cut pieces of your pasta dough into the boiling water. Then, add the cut green beans and allow them to cook for 3 to 4 minutes.
With a strainer or a slotted spoon, move the pasta and beans to a tall-sided pan. Add a large dollop of your pesto and a ladle of the pasta cooking water and mix. Top with additional basil, Parmigiano-Reggiano, crushed pecans, and lemon zest.
The Lord of Ribolla Gialla by Walter Filiputti
I was gifted with a copy of this book by Walter Filiputti. Walte grew up with Manlio stopping by his parents’ osteria in Percoto almost daily. Manlio was 8 years his senior, and Walter looked up to him. He put Manlio’s story to print with photos from the family in 2017.
For more on the wines of Friuli
- White wines of the Collio from Collavini with Poppy Seed Gnocchi and Radicchio
- Celebrating Pinot Grigio from Northeast Italy with Halibut on a Pea Puree
- Italy Friuli-Venezia Guilia, Vigna Petrussa, Schioppettino
- Schioppettino with Cambozola Pumpkin Polenta Pulled Pork and Sauteéd Greens
- Vigna Petrussa and a glimpse at Friuli Colli Orientali
Robin Renken is a wine writer and Certified Specialist of Wine and WSET 3 Certified. She and her husband Michael travel to wine regions interviewing vineyard owners and winemakers and learning the stories behind the glass.
When not traveling they indulge in cooking and pairing wines with food at home in Las Vegas.
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