On the 7th day…well we rested! Eating Pizza and Sucking Glass with Maloof Wines.
Eat pizza, suck glass.
The Mantra from RossandBee at Maloof Wines
We have been cooking a lot lately, and these 12 Days of Wine are keeping us busy. Today on the 7th day of Wine, we rest. We pick up a white pizza, make a bowl of popcorn and watch a movie, thanks to the recommendation of Ross & Bee of Maloof Wines.
This wine is a blend of Pinot Gris and Riesling, they consider it their version of a rosé.
Maloof Wines. Where ya Pj’s at
“Ross: (This) wine is our fun little spring blend, this is what we think of as our answer to a rosé. This is a blend, it’s 55% Pinot Gris and the Pinot Gris was fermented on the skins, kind of as you would traditionally ferment a red wine. So we ferment that, on the skins in two different fashions; we do half of it with full skin contact and daily punch downs and then the other half we actually do carbonic masceration. Then that’s pressed off and blended with Riesling. So it’s like 55% skin contact Pinot Gris and 45% Riesling. And this wine is called “Where Ya PJs at?”
Ross Maloof at the 2018 Uncommon Wine Festival
Pairing Suggestion
So what to pair? On the Maloof site they suggest”
Serve chilled or at cellar temp with white za pies or with a bowl of popcorn over your favorite John Cusak movie. Ours is Grosse Point Blank.
From the Maloof website http://rossandbee.com/wines/
We pulled out the “Where Ya PJ’s at” and donned our PJ’s for pizza popcorn and wine (no lounging in your underwear here). We could enjoy the tree, the lights, a movie and rest a bit.
This was quick, easy, and just the right size to pair with our bowl of popcorn. We ordered the “White Top” signature pizza, which is white cream sauce with mozzarella, applewood bacon, chopped garlic, oregano and fresh arugula, which they add at the end after it has baked for all of 3 minutes in the high heat pizza oven, while I watch.
Trust me there was plenty of garlic! (they people making the pizza are generous with toppings and always check to be sure if they’ve added enough or if you want more!)
We popped up some buttered popcorn to go with the ‘za, popped the bottle of “Where Ya PJ’s At?” and curled up on the couch with a movie.
The wine
The Where Ya PJ’s At? is coppery in the glass from that pinot gris with skin contact. The pinot gris gives it a rich nose also. There is a bit of sediment in the bottom of the bottle (which I kinda like). The flavors are rich and the bit of effervescence tickles your tongue and your taste buds.
Maloof Wines. Where ya Pj’s at
The pairing
We actually watched Sofia Coppolas “Marie Antoinette”and the wine channeled that everyday luxury kind of feel for me. It was a day of lounging about, enjoying tasty bits and wine, like lounging at court. Overall the food and wine pairing was perfect. The movie…hmmm. (maybe we should have gone with a Cusack film)
Want some?
Want to find a bottle of this stuff? Well, they don’t yet ship, but if you are in one of the lucky areas where their wines can be found… here’s the list.
Perhaps there is a bit of the 90 cases of this wine that they made, left out there in the universe. You can hope!
Maybe you should drop by and see them?
Maloof Wines. Where ya Pj’s at
If you want to visit them…drop a note from the website where you can join the Maloof Tang Clan
Continuing our conversation with Rudy Marchesi at Montinore Estate
After looking over the Willamette Valley AVA map and having Rudy give us some background on the soils and the impact of the Missoula floods we sat with him to talk about how these soils influence the wines at Montinore Estate.
Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir is very expressive and Rudy told us that pinot grown in the windblown loess here tend to be brighter, with berry flavors rather than the cherry notes that are so often associated with pinot noir. The pinots here also are very spicy with baking spices.
They produce several different Pinot Noirs here. Here is a sampling. I can’t promise that I have not missed one.
“Red Cap” Pinot Noir: This is a blend from all the vineyards giving you multiple areas and soil types blended into one bottle.
Reserve Pinot Noir: Again from multiple sites but all within the estate. These are the best blocks and lots. They ferment and age separately and then blend the best.
Parsons’ Ridge Pinot Noir: This vineyard block sits on a part of the vineyard where the vines face two different directions. The lots, as they are different, are fermented separately and then blended.
Keeler Estate Pinot Noir: This is a 25 acres Biodynamic vineyard in Eola-Amity Hills that they source from. This gives you another opportunity to taste and compare the terroir.
Windy Hill Pinot Noir: This comes from the Southern part of the Valley and is influenced by the winds of the Van Duzer Corridor.
Cataclysm Pinot Noir: Comes from their Block 1 which has mineral rich soils. They pick the most expressive barrels from this block to make this wine.
Pinot Gris
He finds the white wines to actually be more distinctive. Pinot gris grown in the Missoula flood loess, is very complex. Rather than apple and pear, they get citrus and herbal notes. In warmer years there will be tropical notes. Always he finds pinot gris here to have lots of texture.
Riesling
The riesling he find distinctive, but without as much difference although he feels sure some might disagree.
Chardonnay
Chardonnay is new here. They had quite a bit planted early on, but it was the clone brought up from California. This clone was a late ripener and had tight clusters which were prone to rot. It was a great clone when there was good weather in a vintage, but that was about 1out of every 4 years.
They have now planted the new Dijon clone, which has looser clusters and is an earlier ripening clone. They are back in the Chardonnay business in a small way. He is encouraged by the quality, but it’s too soon to know what they will get stylistically from the vineyards with these clones. They will need a few more vintages to figuring this out.
Bubbles
They are currently producing a prosecco style bubbly, and have a Traditional Methode Champenoise Sparkling wine of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay which is yet to be released.
Other Varieties
In addition they are growing bits of Teroldego and Lagrein, Gerwürztraminer and Müller Thurgau.
Blends and specialty wines
You will find Rosé, Orange wine, fortified wine (Ruby), Ice wine (Frolic) and Verjus also on their wine line-up which is very diverse, having something for every palate.
Everything here is done on site, and they try to be as Estate as possible. The 2016 Pinot got away from 100% Estate because they had too much demand and had to contract a couple of other growers.
Speaking with Rudy and walking the winery, you can see the pride they take in making the best possible wines here.
You can learn a bit about the estate with our posts.
The brains and the brawn, the science and the passion…the perfect pairing for making wines. Ross and Bee consider themselves to be a “true yin and yang team.”
Ross & Bee Maloof exude joy when you speak with them. They are truly excited, bubbling to tell you about these wines that they are so passionate about. And it’s contagious. When we spoke with them at the Uncommon Wine Festival at Vista Hills Vineyard, they were multi-tasking, pouring glasses and keeping up multiple conversations at the same time.
Their story, while not easy, is kind of dreamy. Bee is an aerospace materials engineer, rooted in science, while Ross comes from a hospitality background, running Food and Beverage programs on the east coast in Phili. Ross had this urge to get into production and got into wine doing an internship with Brianna Day of Day Wines. Brianna runs Day Camp, a wine cooperative and home to 11 small producers, one of which is now Maloof.
In 2015 they made a single barrel of wine, while living a bi-coastal life, just coming to Oregon for harvests.
“Ross: In 2016 I had left my job in Philadelphia and I lived in a tent behind the winery from the middle of July through Thanksgiving and Bee came out for a really good portion of that too. She took all her vacation
Bee: and I’d been saving it for years and years and years
Ross: Spent it all
Bee: In a tent”
So they spent the harvest in a tent behind the winery to fund their first vintage. At this point, they decided to make a go of it. They returned to Phili, packed up the stuff they didn’t sell, put the dogs in the car and did a 33-day drive across the country, with stops along the way to visit family.
This year they will be doing their 4th vintage, but they have only been full time residents since last May.
They focus on white wine, making 6 or 7 wines each year, with only one being a red wine and even that wine is typically 30% white fruit. Their style is
“Bright, snappy, low alcohol, high acid white wines.”
As we got into tasting the first wine Bee gave us a disclaimer.
“Bee: This first one is our possibly, I don’t want to say our most boring, because it’s very classic. (But) It’s going to get weirder going forward.
2017 Nemarniki Vineyard Riesling
Maloof 2017 Nemarniki Vineyard Riesling
“Bee: This is our 2017 Riesling, it’s from a really cool vineyard at the top of the Chehalem Mountain Range, kinda just down the road, the Nemarniki vineyard and it is run by a female farmer, which I’m always a big proponent of. She and her 3 legged mastiff dog, Babe, basically make the best fruit on Chehalem Mountain, it’s so good. We fermented this super classically, low and slow over the winter, in large format neutral oak puncheons, so 500 liter puncheons and then we bottled in the spring. And you’ll notice there’s a little sparkle to it, a little frizzante.”
A couple of extra notes: Nemarniki is Dry Farmed, LIVE Certified, sits at 850 feet and the soil here is Loess. The alcohol sits quietly at 10.5%, and it runs around $18 a bottle.
They suggest spicy pizza (they actually will suggest a type of pizza to pair with any wine. Pizza is kinda their thing), or Asian dishes with lots of umami. They refer to this wine as “Stone-fruit moon juice”, which is an apt description.
2017 “Where ya PJs at?
Maloof 2017 Where ya Pjs at?
“Ross: (This) wine is our fun little spring blend, this is what we think of as our answer to a rosé. This is a blend, it’s 55% Pinot Gris and the Pinot Gris was fermented on the skins, kind of as you would traditionally ferment a red wine. So we ferment that, on the skins in two different fashions; we do half of it with full skin contact and daily punch downs and then the other half we actually do carbonic masceration. Then that’s pressed off and blended with Riesling. So it’s like 55% skin contact Pinot Gris and 45% Riesling. And this wine is called “Where Ya PJs at?”
The Pinot Gris came from Johan Vineyard which will be in the new Van Duzer Corridor AVA when that is approved and the Riesling, like the Riesling above came from Nemarniki in the Chehalem Mountain AVA. Soils at Johan are silty loam and Nemarniki is loess.
Which pie to enjoy this wine with? They suggest a white pizza or “a bowl of popcorn over your favorite John Cusack movie”
This wine sits at 11.5 alcohol and will set you back a whopping $21 (do it if you can)
2017 Beckenridge Vineyard Gerwürztraminer
We moved onto the final wine they were pouring on this particular day.
2017 Beckenridge Vineyard Gerwürztraminer
“Ross: So this last one is our Gewürztraminer. This is from Beckenridge vineyard, just outside of Eola-Amity Hills. The vines here are turning 40 this year. They are own-rooted so really old vine Gewürtztraminer for Oregon. It’s a really lovely little place. We take this fruit and ferment it fully dry on the skins which ended up taking about 23 days. So that’s 23 days skin contact before it was pressed off to neutral oak for the winter and bottled in the spring.”
This wine is from Beckenridge Vineyard. The vines here are own-rooted and dry farmed and they are LIVE Certified. The elevation is 650 feet and the soil is Jory.
On their site they describe this wine as “rose petals and black tea” and “A brooding copper color, with nourishing aromatics of flowers and cheering alpine herbs”. The alcohol goes up another notch to 12.5%, which still sits on the low side in the universe as a whole, and runs $20. They suggest pairing this wine with root veggies and alpine cheeses, oh, and Pizza…always with pizza.
As I noted the rich color of the Gerwürztraminer, Ross filled us in on their approach to this wine:
“Ross: Yeah, so essentially if we kinda think about wine in the binary of white and red, white wine you are typically pressing the grape and separating the solid matter out of the equation and just fermenting the juice by itself and that’s why white wine is bright and acidic and easy to drink. Whereas red wine, you crush the grapes and you leave all that solid matter, the skins, the seeds, the stems sometimes, you leave that in and even kind of reincorporate it. I think of it as steeping tea. The skin of the berry is really where all the pigment is, that’s why even with table grapes, if you go to the grocery store and you buy red grapes, if you cut one open it doesn’t bleed red onto your counter it’s white on the inside, which is why Champagne is crystal clear and it’s made of Pinot Noir. As you increase that steeping time that contact time with the solid matter, in the fermentation, you get more color pigmentation. So if you take white grapes and do the same thing you would normally do for a red ferment, you end up with this copper hue. But what you also end up with is a white wine that has more phenolic bitterness or drive complexity and tannins. So things that you might more often associate with a red wine. There are a number of wine cultures in the world that have been making white wine that way forever. The Republic of Georgia, parts of Slovenia, north eastern Italy, make their white wines, the same way they make their red wines. That’s just the tradition and how they make it.”
This wasn’t the first reference to Georgian wines we had heard today and finding these “Orange Wines” made the day pretty unique.
Other Maloof Wines
They were not pouring their Syrah on this particular day, but I asked about it. It was two weeks from bottling at that time. In 2015 they did a classic Syrah/Viognier blend. This year though, it would be Syrah/Marsanne. It was planned to be a Syrah/Marsanne/Roussanne but the Roussanne was lost to a frost.
In addition they have a sur lee aged Pinot Gris that they sold out of earlier in the year, but they will be bottling again next year.
How to find them?
Yeah, not online, at least not yet. Watch for them to get that set up in the spring of 2019. In the mean time they are distributed in Oregon, New York, New Jersey, Pennsylvania and Vermont. Check out their distributor page here. http://rossandbee.com/find-wine/
“One who eschews all cultural values, pure hedonism”
On a side note Merriam-Webster tells us that the term originally meant “freedman” when it appeared in 14th-century English and evolved to include religious and secular freethinkers in the 1500s. Freethinker…that pretty well describes Alex Neely.
We met Alex at the Uncommon Wine Festival held at Vista Hills Vineyards, an event that would seem to attract and showcase freethinkers in the wine world, so Alex was right at home.
Alex Neely, Winemaker
We spoke with Alex about how he came to wine making.
“I used to purchase wine for a fancy food store and I was a cheese monger as well. I decided to go into wine production, so I called up the guy whose new world Rieslings I respected the most and that was Barnaby at Teutonic. So then I’ve been with Barnaby since 2014, as his assistant and helping run the vineyards, and then I’ve been making this label at Teutonic since 2015. Started out with just some rieslings, and then just started getting some Dolcetto this past year in 2017 and I’m not too sure what the next year will hold but, we just keep adding on.“
The name Libertine Wines comes from the definition above and was shaped by his time at Reed College
“I majored in religious philosophy and mysticism and minored in hedonism”
We all laughed at that. I was thinking back to college and figured, I kinda minored in hedonism also, but then…after reading about Reed College, I’m not sure it was a joke. Regardless, the wines he makes are an homage to that opulence.
“It’s how I live my life, I eat, drink and smoke whatever I care to and don’t worry about it.”
This stuff is new!
You won’t find this everywhere. Alex just started releasing these wines about 3 months ago.
“I’m very new on the scene, but I’ve been hitting the market pretty hard, so we are in about 20 different places in Portland right now, but that’s it, I just sell in Portland right now. And then things like this, I’ve been to a couple, this is I think my 3rd group event, and then I’ve done like a whole bunch of other random tastings.”
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Art on the Labels
The labels will catch you. They are the type that definitely draw your eye in a line-up of bottles. Attracted to art that speaks of the wine and the story, his labels are unique and evocative. From Carravaggios to psychedelic artists, you won’t forget these bottles.
“My wife helps me out as well she was an art history major at USC. So I’ll find some goofy picture online and she’ll tell me what it is.”
2017 Sunnyside Vineyard Dolcetto Rosé
2017 Sunnyside Vineyard Dolcetto Rose
We started off tasting his 2017 Dolcetto Rose. The fruit comes from the Sunny Side Vineyard down by Enchanted Forest. This vineyard in near Salem and sits off of Sunnyside Road near Rogers Creek. The elevation is a little over 660 feet and the vineyard sits on a slight slope facing south west. Soils here are Jory and Nekia. (Information from everyvine.com)
This rosé is foot stomped and sits in the cold room to soak on the skins for 2 days. He then presses it off and it ferments with wild yeast. It goes into neutral oak with just a tiny bit of sulfite as a preservative. It’s unfiltered and unfined.
The label on this is “The Inspiration of Saint Matthew” by Carravaggio.
“And the legend has it, you’re not supposed to harvest Dolcetto until after Saint Matthews Day, so once I discovered that, I ran to my calendar and I was like s*^t, should I harvest this? Luckliy it was two weeks after, so all set. I really like that he was the master of Chiaroscuro and I really like the contrast of the red against the black.”
The 2017 Acid Freak Rose
Libertine 2017 Acid Freak Rose
This wine was a bit of an accident, but a happy one.
“So I had a half barrel of Dolcetto rosé fermenting and there’s not much you can do with a half barrel once it’s done ‘cause it will oxidize. I had no idea what I was going to do with it, but then I was pressing my Riesling off, it was late at night, I had filled up my holding tank and there is still about 30 gallons left in the press pan and I said “screw it” I’ve had Riesling from Piedmont before, so I just pumped it into the Dolcetto barrel, they finished fermenting together, and then I liked it so much, I threw another barrel of each at it prior to bottling.”
With a wild yeast ferment in neutral oak, it again is unfiltered and unfined. Just 71 cases were produced.
It is a familiar contradiction in the glass. He says “Gentle yet rough. Soft yet hard. Strange yet familiar”. It’s all that. I left with a bottle.
The artwork on this bottle came from him Googling “psychedelic picture”. This picture popped up by the artist Larry Carlson. The picture really embodied the wine for Alex so he contacted Larry and bought the rights.
2016 LaVelle Vineyard “Botrytis” Dry Riesling
Libertine 2016 Lavelle Botrytis Dry Riesling
This wine is a botrytisized skin contact Riesling. It’s funny to hear a winemaker gushing over fuzzy gray grapes, but nobel rot will do that to you.
“So this particular year it came in with super pretty fuzzy gray noble rot, just perfect stuff.”
He found out about the botrytis from the guy growing the grapes, who asked what he would like to do with it. Alex, unafraid, told him to let it go as long as it looked pretty, he was happy with it. Botrytis has to have the right conditions, so this doesn’t happen every year and Alex was happy to have the opportunity to play with this. It hung a bit longer and developed nicely, then his wife and he footstomped the grapes and let them sit in the cold room for 5 days. It went into the press, fermented and sat in barrel for 8 months. At the time of this tasting it had been in bottle for over a year.
This wine has a beautiful nose and then surprising acid on the palate with a little tannic grip from the skin contact.
The artwork for both of the reislings is “The Triumph of Bacchus by Cornelis de Vos”. Alex came across this painting right after he decided on the name Libertine. ” I feel it embodies the true baroque opulence and pure hedonism of the Libertine. It is also a fun Rorschach Test as people tend to project their own personal views upon it. ”
2015 LaVelle Vineyard Riesling
This wine is also from the La Velle Vineyard, which is the oldest Vineyard in the south valley, 40 minutes or so North West of Eugene. The Riesling sits at the top of a hill at about 700 foot elevation.
This wine is the same vineyard, the same blocks as the 2016 “Botytis” Riesling. 2015 was a hot year and Alex wanted a slow cold ferment, but their production facility at that time was in the middle of the woods and without a cold room. As a result it fermented outside through the winter, with Alex checking it monthly. He definitely got a slow fermentation, it took 6 months to finish. It then sat on the gross lees in neutral oak for another year and a half. At the time of tasting it had been in the bottle for about a year. It has the big rich style typical of 2015 vintage and a tiny bit of residual sugar, with great acidity.
On the beauty of honoring the vintage
“So the two (Rieslings) are drastically different because of the year. I’m very vintage driven, I’m like let’s let the year shine through, everybody is like “Let’s let the soil shine through”, but there are a lot of other components going on. I mean I could put a bunch of additives in there to make them all taste the same year after year after year, but where’s the fun in that? My lob would be boring as hell.”
When it comes to getting inspiration for a good meal there is no place better to go than the Farmers Market. I am lucky enough to frequent the Downtown 3rd Farmers Market in Las Vegas, yes, Las Vegas and yes, Downtown. This market is in the gorgeous old (well old in Vegas terms) Downtown Bus Station. This is an all organic market with local farmers (yes…there are farms in Las Vegas!) as well as some from further north in the state as well as Kerry Clasby, The Intuitive Forager, who brings in gorgeous produce from small organic farms in California. Kerry started coming to town to bring her amazing finds to the fine chefs all over our fair city. Luckily, she started a Farmers Market so all of us foodies could get our hands on some of those fine ingredients.
With all the amazing things you can find at this market (micro greens, fresh eggs, maitake mushrooms, baby artichokes, sorrel, purple cauliflower….the list just goes on and on) sometimes it can be a little overwhelming to try to figure out what to get to make a meal. Luckily Chef Stu is always there at the market and it ready with a recipe for anything you can find. On this occasion he inspired me with a recipe for Sweet Potato Gnocchi with spring vegetables. You can read our 4farm2mrkt blog post with the recipe here!
So of course I needed a wine to pair with this great gnocchi. Asparagus is notoriously difficult to pair with and the sweet potato gnocchi added a twist that I wasn’t sure what to do with. So I did some research.
I was leaning toward an Alsace Riesling or a Gruner Veltliner from Austria with back up plans of a Sancerre or Pouilly Fume from the Loire Valley (as recommended by Food and Wine).
So we headed to Marché Bacchus, which is a wonderful little wine shop and bistro here in Las Vegas. They were very busy with lunch, but Jeff Wyatt, the owner was kind enough to take a couple of minutes to help me and make a recommendation. With the asparagus he recommended something with good acid but also a heavier viscosity and directed us to a Schieferkopf Riesling from Alsace. It was a perfect pairing.
Marché Bacchus French Bistro & Wine Shop
The Riesling was a 2010 by M. Chapoutier who is better known for the wines he produces in the Rhone. He and 5 friends decided to try their hand at Alsace Rieslings in 2009, so this was only their 2nd vintage. This wine is biodynamic and the grapes are grown on one of the highest vineyards in Alsace. Schieferkopf means “slate topped”. They handpick and gently press this wine and mature it on lees for several months in traditional Foudres. The maturing on lees is evident in the viscosity. This wine is a deep golden color and you get that note of petrol on the nose. When you put it in your mouth it has charming acid. Charming? You say. Yep, that’s what I say. It’s acid that is tempered by the thickness of the wine which balances both beautifully.
So the acid was lovely cutting through the warmth of the gnocchi and pairing well with the spring vegetables, but then this extra viscosity in the wine wrapped everything up. I think in the 4farm2mrkt post I waxed poetic on the gnocchi describing it: “Like the feel of a brisk spring morning wrapped in your favorite sweater” Which is actually applicable to this wine also.
Did this post make you hungry and thirsty? Well click on the video and see how to make it yourself!
I have wanted to visit Municipal Winemakers for a while. We stopped in on our last trip through Santa Barbara a year and a half ago only to find that they were sold out and had no wines to taste! Well, if you are going to have a problem in the wine industry, I think that is the one to have. As we planned another trip through the area I did more research on the winery.
Municipal Winemakers, Santa Barbara
They are kitschy, located in The Santa Barbara Urban Wine Trail’s “Funk Zone”. Their winemaker Dave Potter wants to get the wine to the people. He loves making wine and meeting people who want to drink his wine. Distributors and sales…that creates the distance between the grape and the glass and takes some of the heart out of the process. So…Dave makes his wines and sells them in his tasting room. Small lots, high quality and it’s working if he is selling out before he can release another vintage!
This is not your average wine tasting room. Outside you have to see the sign on the sidewalk to realize that it is a tasting room, otherwise it looks like an old dive shop near the beach in Santa Barbara. There are picnic tables set up in an area out front. When you walk in you first notice the wall of stacked filing cabinets.
Municipal WineMakers, File Cabinet Wall
As we walked up for our tasting the person pouring pulled one drawer open and pulled out two glasses and oversized index card with a typed list of the tastings!
We tasted through the list, which included a dry, Riesling (Bright White), a Rose (Pale Pink), a Red Blend (Bright Red), a Pinot (Rita’s Crown Pinot Noir), a Cab and a sweeter Riesling (Sweetness). The bottles have great labels and each bottle has a bottle number listed. The rose was Grenache, Cinsault and Counoise and the “Bright Red” which I really enjoyed was the same blend with Syrah. The Bright Red was light on the palate but with big flavor. They do also have a “Wine Fountain” where they serve wine by the glass or in 1 liter refillable bottles.
We walked the neighborhood enjoying some more of the “Funk Zone” before heading up State Street. Next door there is an old red phone box labeled “Book Exchange” and filled with books. I had seen these on Facebook, but this was the first I had seen close up! Need a book, take a book, done with a book, leave it! It is a great concept! Lots of other wineries have tasting rooms in the area. Anacapa Vineyards is not even listed yet, they are so new! They have a beautiful tasting room with big windows and chalkboards on the walls filled with all kinds of interesting information on their grapes and wines. It is a regular wine education classroom!
Oreana Winery
Oreana Winery up the street has old trucks painted with their logo out front and a juke box in the garage that is part of their barrel room. Pali, which is next to Anacapa, has lots of windows and a patio on the side. Santa Barbara Winery sits in a white washed building covered in vines. In addition to the wineries listed on the Urban Wine Trail site, there are more popping up all the time. We saw a side door on a building that said “Drake”. This new little tasting room evidently recently opened. When we were later at Sculpterra in Paso, the person pouring for us said his friend had just opened that tasting room (the wine world is a small world).
While we only had time to taste at Municipal, we will happily return to spend a day or two tasting in the area and enjoying the beach. There are around 11 tasting rooms in “The Funk Zone” and another 9 or 10 within the downtown area, including Conway’s Deep Sea Tasting room out on Stearns Wharf.
For now…we were off to take a stroll up State Street and find Au Bon Climat (or ABC as it seems to be known here).
In searching for great places to enjoy wine and food in Vegas you come across plenty of list of “Best Of”. In a list of “Best Wine Bars” in Vegas I came across a name of an off strip restaurant that I had not heard of. Due Forni specializes in pizza. They have 2 special ovens to create Neapolitan and Roman style pizza. Neapolitan has a soft heavy crust, while Roman is thinner and crisper and cracker like. So you start with amazing crusts and then add amazing toppings like bufalo mozzarella, prosciutto, black truffle, roasted mushrooms or duck confit… yeah…this place is awesome.
And…more than pizza they have amazing salads, appetizers and a mozzerella bar.
And…it gets better. They have a series of Enomatic wine dispensers so you can get over 40 amazing wines by the glass.
And…the music here is upbeat Italian jazz and they have TVs playing classic “spaghetti westerns”. There is a patio, dining room and bar and great atmosphere.
So on a cool (I’d say cold but those of you on the east coast would just laugh at me) and cloudy early afternoon, we headed out to give this place a try.
Duck Confit pizza in a Neapolitan style
We headed straight in and sat at the bar. I find the bar at lunch the place I am going to get the most information about the wines (and I got to stare at all those bottles in the Enomatic machines. Then we started the process of staring at the menu. We settled on the Duck Confit pizza in a Neapolitan style. This pizza is topped with oven roasted duck, bufala mozzarella, fresh spinach, red onions and an over easy baked egg. Then we turned to Annie at the bar for advice on pairing. She suggested the Zenato Valpolicella Superiore 2009 and the Cavalchina 2009 Bardolina Chiaretto Rose. Both of these wines come from the Veneto region of Italy, the home of Amarone. It was really interesting to try the Valpolicella a deep red wine and the rose with the duck. The Valpolicella had a lighter mouthfeel than I had expected, but the played nicely with the duck adding a richness. The Rose was really lovely with it, the acid cutting through the fat of the duck and the egg. So…both were great pairings! We finished all of that off and then went back to the menu for more.
Semolina Gnocchi
We chose to split the Semolina Gnocchi appetizer with smoked nueske’s bacon, peas and black truffle creme. Michael looked for a Riesling on the menu (his favorite pairing) and chose the SA Prum Blue Slate Kabinette Riesling 2007 (he got to compare it to the SA Prum Essence he tried the other day). I opted for the Pricipessa by Banfi Gavi 2011. Again both paired nicely. The Pricipessa cut through the fat in the gnocchi without simply cleaning my palate. It mixed and added to the flavor of the gnocchi.
After that we were stuffed, but I look forward to going back and trying the Mozzarella bar and more of their amazing wines! They offer tastings on the wines at 20% of the glass price. They also have a selection of beers and list on the menu the option of buying the cooks a beer for a dollar!
Okay…now to geek out on the wines.
Valpolicella is made in the Veneto region of north-east Italy. It’s signature tart cherry aroma has caused it to be thought of as Italian Beaujolais. Typically these wines are light bodied and served at room temperature or slightly chilled and often sit at about 11% alcohol. If they are labeled Valpolicella Superiore they must be aged for at least one year in oak and reach an alcohol level of 12%.
Valpolicella is made of Corvina, Rondinella and Molinara grapes. Corvina is thought of as the best of these grapes and produces wines with more body than is typical of a Valpolicella, when the grape is grown on warmer, well-drained slopes.
Valpolicella
The Zenato Valpolicella Superiore 2009 is 80% Corvina, 10% Rondinella and 10% Sangiovese all grown in Sant’Ambrogio di Valpoicella on a southeast facing hill. The soil here is chalky and calcareous and the vines are cordon trained and spur-pruned. There are 5,000 vines per hectare and the yield is 10 tons per hectare. Hand picked in October the grapes are de-stemmed and macerated for 10 days in stainless steel fermenters (I warned you that I was going to geek out on the wines!). They age this in Slovinian oak for one year. While this wine is ready to drink now, you can also age it for a number of years.
Bardolina Chiaretto Rose
The Cavalchina 2009 Bardolina Chiaretto Rose comes from the Cavalchina district. Originally Chiaretto was the by product of the Bardolino Rosso. This was the run off after maceration with the skins. The harvest time for the Rosso was meant to keep the wine low acid, which is not ideal for roses. Now the wines are made separately, with the grapes for the Chiaretto harvested 2 weeks before the Rosso. There is a 24 hr maceration period followed by clarification and 15-18 days fermentation. They avoid malolactic fermentation and leave the wine on it’s lees until it is bottled. This wine has a lovely salmon color.
I gave you a little background on S.A. Prum with the A Cloudy afternoon at the View now Michael was getting to compare the SA Prum Blue Slate Kabinette Riesling 2007 with the SA Prum Essence. This wine is named for the blue slate soil on the very steep slopes where it is grown.
I have been a Banfi fan for a while. Several years ago I attended a wine pairing dinner where they served all Banfi wines. It was a great experience and probably kick started me into the more intense love of wine that I have now. So when Annie suggested the Principessa Gavia I was anxious to try it!
Castello Banfi has it’s winery in the Brunello region of Tuscany. The vineyard is family-owned and they have sister estates in Piedmont, Vigne Regali and Principessa Gavi. A bit of interesting history; the company is named after Teodolinda Banfi who was the first lay person ever to head the pope’s household staff. Her nephew John Mariani, Sr was born in Connecticut in 1895, his father died when he was nine and he, his mother and siblings returned to live with his mother’s sister, Teodolinda. In 1919 John Mariani, Sr. opened Castello Banfi winehouse in New York.
The Principessa Gavi is 100% Cortese. Cortese di Gavi is grown in the lower Piedmont region of Italy.
Due Forni is getting ready to open another location in Austin Texas. Austin just doesn’t know how lucky they are!
I spent an afternoon with Joey at the View Wine Bar(420 South Rampart Las Vegas at Tivoli Village) awhile ago and shared with you in my Adventures in Sauvignon Blanc blog. Well today I took Michael along for lunch at The View. The weather was about the same, cloudy and a little windy, but the view was better because the fountain was full and working (as opposed to dry and filled with men in yellow vests cleaning it!). The location is a little hard to find, which is why we are talking about it here and giving you directions. You will find it above Brio at Tivoli Village. To get there, walk past the entrance to Brio and around the corner and look for LV Market! Enter there and cross through the downstairs bistro and take the stairs to the 2nd floor. Head to the front of the building and relax in the industrial decadence of the “View”.
View from View Bar
You can see the fountain out the front windows and the mix of industrial architecture with exposed ceilings and ducts and tufted couches and seats with natural woods and wine bottle light fixtures in plumbing pipes is enchanting in my opinion. My advice is to go on a weekday mid day and sit at the bar. Joey will be working and she is full of great advice on food and wine. If you like a little more action, well then hit it in the evenings when Joey tells me the place is hoppin’!
Michael and I strolled up and had a seat at the bar to enjoy the view. The menu is full of great small plate items so you can order a bunch and enjoy. We ordered the risotto cakes (which I enjoyed last time) the tuna tartare tacos, the Tivoli wrapped dates and the Gnocchi Gratin. Michael started with the S.A. Prum, Essence Riesling from Germany and I started with the Cloudline Pinot Noir. The S.A. Prum is from Mosel, and the Cloudline is a Willamette Valley Pinot. We both enjoyed the wines and felt both were good food wines. We tasted with the Tivoli wrapped dates which are dates stuffed with goat cheese and almonds wrapped in prosciutto and then set in a balsamic reduction. We moved on to tasting with the Tuna tartare tacos, which were mini hard shell tacos with raw tuna, avocado, fresh lettuce and a little creme fraiche. Then the gnocchi gratin, which went surprisingly well with the Pinot! The acid cut through beautifully with the cheese and paired nicely with the risotto cakes which are breaded fried squares of risotto topped with grated parmesan and lemon zest. The lemon zest added a wonderful fragrance! Michael moved on to an Italian Pinot Grigio called VOGA which again paired great with the food. We talked about European wines and how they are meant to pair with food which makes them different from many new world wines that are blended to drink alone. As we moved on to dessert, we settled on the Dark Chocolate Nutella Cake and paired it with the Condundrum Red (which obviously is a whole lot of Zinfandel and a bit of Petite Sirah) and Joey’s favorite (that she let me taste when we walked in) Earthquake Petite Sirah from Lodi. The Earthquake was beautiful on it’s own while the Conundrum was a little hot. When paired with the Chocolate Nutella cake, both were stunning!
I will admit to a bit of snobbery. I really had no desire to go to Wilson Creek in Temecula. I mean you find bottles of their Almond champagne in Long’s Drug Stores (well you did when they were around). I figured how could they be creating wine I would like to drink? Well… there is a lot more to them then the Almond champagne.
Wilson Creek is located at the far east end of Rancho California Road and it is rare that you will get there and find the parking lot not full. While the grounds are huge and beautiful, a favorite for weddings and the buildings and event center large and impressive, this is still a family affair at heart.
Wilson Creek View
Gerry and Rosie Wilson acquired the 20 acre vineyard in 1996 with the simple intent of running a fun family business and making great wine. With the entire family, children and grand children as well as 5 golden retrievers who can be seen often on property, they have succeeded in making this a family affair.
The Lower Garden is open to parties of 10 or less for picnicing. They just ask that you don’t come to camp! No tents or shade covers, ice chests or animals and no outside alcoholic beverages.
The Creekside Restaurant offers a menu for lunch that can be enjoyed around the grounds. You place your order at the Concert Stage and it will be delivered to you in the upper garden. You can enjoy this in the lower garden also, but you will need to pick up your order. The menu includes a variety of lunch items as well as a full wine list, beer and other beverages.
With their Event Center Wilson Creek stays busy with Corporate Events and private parties. The Event Center includes 3 spaces that can accommodate 50-300 people each with a dance floor. In addition they have two stages that can accommodate up to 400 guests. Really this place can be party central for 6 or 7 large parties at time!
Bill Wilson is the son and owner. He works with his Mom & Dad, Brother & Sister, Wife, brother in law & sister in law. (Did I mention that this was a family affair?) Bill’s Mom and Dad can often be seen on the grounds with their two golden retrievers. They have 92 acres and grow 12 varieties on the estate and then source some grapes. The varieties used in their wines include: Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Muscat, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Barbera, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Mourvedre, Petite Sirah, Pinot Noir, Sangiovese, Syrah and Zinfandel. They also . When you listen to Bill you know that you are not dealing with a corporation, this is a joyful family affair. They incorporated what they loved about the wineries they visited when they created Wilson Creek. And it’s not just about their winery, they want to promote Temecula and encourage people to come and taste, enjoy and learn. Listen to the great interview with him at http://www.temeculawines.org/videos/ and see exactly what I mean.
I didn’t think it was possible that Wilson Creek used Methode Champenois for their almond champagne, and I was right. There is no way they could do that and sell it at that price! What I was surprised by, was that they do use the Charmat method which is fermenting the wine in bulk in stainless steel tanks! The final method they actually refer to as “cheating” on their site. In this method CO2 is injected into the wine. Typically this method causes very large bubble that can cause Huge headaches! They do not cheat at Wilson Creek. They do, by the way have a wonderful section of their website on wine education called Wine 101 that Mick Wilson put together with fascinating information on Barrels, Port, Champagne, Wine Varietals and much more. http://www.wilsoncreekwinery.com/Wine-101/Default.aspx
Wilson Creek Picnic View
The next time you are in Temecula, drive all the way out Rancho California to Wilson Creek, taste some wine, stroll the grounds and say hello to the Wilson’s. You will know them by the golden retrievers at their sides!
Okay it’s no secret that I have a wine crush on Neil Collins and I had done research on their winery before going there so I was extra excited when his sister was pouring for us. The grounds transport you before you ever enter the tasting room. The story behind The Will probably got to me also. The Will is a blend of Petite Sirah, Grenache Noir and Zinfandel source fromt he organic dry farmed Heaton Vineyards. It is known to stain teeth! The grapes are grown on Will’s Hill named after the Heaton’s son Will. The wine is named in memory of Will.
Here’s my Shout out to Virginia wineries! I did a wine tasting day with my two best friends from College in Virginia this year and fell in love with Virginia Cabernet Franc. My best friend found a new favorite wine in Cab Franc. It is rich without being big and fruity, and it is easier drinking than Cabernet Sauvignon. This was the last stop of our day at Veritas and after our tasting we enjoyed a bottle out on the patio. Of course the setting and the company made the wine taste better and makes me want to drink it to revisit that day, but also, Cabernet Franc is one of my favorite reds!
I happen to be a big fan of Kenneth Volk. I love the way he pushes boundaries. So going to Wildhorse was a little like a pilgrimage. It was late in the day in the middle of the week and we were the only ones in the tasting room. We had a fantastic tasting with a fabulously well informed (if not enthusiastic) pourer. I enjoyed everything, but when he poured the Unbridled Bien Nacido Pinot Noir I was enthralled. This is barnyard in the best sense. All hail to Bien Nacido for providing such incredible fruit! We left with a bottle and I will track this wine down! This is a wine that I will drink with my eyes closed.
Trisaetum was one of the last vineyards we visited in the Dundee Hills and it is WAY out on a backroad. We were there early and were the first tasters of the day. This was a departure from our Oregon tastings because they specialize in Reisling. The variety of Reisling that they create from several different vineyards is amazing. Their Coast Range Reisling stands in my memory as my favorite.
When we visited the winery we did get great service from an eager and knowledgeable pourer and once others wandered in for tastings we were able to stroll the beautiful art gallery in the tasting room. So ambience and people played a part in our initial love of the wine.
It’s fall and time for me to order some of this! We were lucky this summer to find that Khoury’s had a few bottles of their Estate Reserve Reisling so we snatched those up. And yes, compared to other Reislings that we had been drinking this was still far superior.
So…that’s the tip of my iceberg for wines that I can’t forget. Of course as I have been writing more and more wines have come to mind and I know that there are many more out there that I have yet to taste. And…did I answer the question as to why? Probably not. As usual wine is hard to pin down, the experience and the taste are connected in ways that we cannot fully understand or describe but that we can most certainly enjoy.
Growing up, the first wine I tasted was Blue Nun. My parents were not wine drinkers and when they had people over for dinner, Blue Nun was a good safe bet at the time. Now we think of this as an unsophisticated sweet german wine and if you are a wine drinker it probably conjures the same connotations as “tickled pink”. As a disclaimer…I’m referring to the Blue Nun I tasted in my youth, I have not had any recently, and it could have dramatically changed since then.
My wine tastes have changed. As I started drinking wine the sweeter german rieslings were fun and easy to drink. As my palate evolved I wanted something less cloying. I mentioned the other day finding a great food riesling. The Gunderloch J-Baptiste Riesling is slightly sweet but very clean and great with Thai food. It’s just too bad I can only find it in restaurants locally!
Michael enjoys rieslings and we explore quite a bit with different styles all typically in a lower budget range. I hate to spend more than $25 on a wine that I have not tasted and don’t know if I will like. We’ve found some that are nice for food and for quaffing and some that just don’t measure up.
In traveling tasting wines at wineries we rarely end up tasting rieslings because we are usually in California. A few years ago though we visited Oregon the Willamette Valley, the Dundee Hills and Trisaetum. We were there early in the day, in fact probably the first visitors. This winery is off the beaten path and we drove and drove and worried we were headed the wrong way, until finally cresting a hill and finding the vineyard and winery. As it was so early we were able to sidle up to the bar and have a great conversation with the pourer on the wines and the vineyards. These were rieslings like we had not tasted before and the range of rieslings dependent upon the vineyard location was amazing. They were all fantastic. We had spent several days in the area and were flying home and did not purchase wine to take with us. I can’t tell you how often we have thought of these wines since then.
A month or so ago I was at a wine tasting at Khoury’s on the other side of town and after the tasting was doing my usual stroll down all of the aisles looking for wines by wineries I am familiar with and I came across a Trisaetum 2008 Riesling. I immediately picked it up and cradled it. This I would be taking home. In researching it I found that this wine had scored 94 points and received an Editors choice award from Wine Enthusiast.
When Michael and I sat down to open this we paired it with smoked gouda, a smoked goat cheese cheddar and one of our favorite quick appetizers the lemongrass chicken sticks from Trader Joe’s. This wine was stunning with them as well as lovely on it’s own. We both realized the moment we tasted that this is the difference between a small vineyard wine that might cost you $30 or more and a $7.99 to $15 bottle of riesling that has been produced in much greater quantities. This was worth it. And…if memory serves, when we tasted at the winery, this was not even the best of the rieslings we tasted.
Now this is not to say that you cannot find great inexpensive rieslings. You can! But for our money we would rather find a compelling wine from a smaller vineyard where you can see the history and the love of making wine.
Regardless of the cost or where it comes from you will still find riesling to be one of the best wines to pair with foods, most especially summer foods. It plays well with salty things, ham, charcuterie, sausage, bleu cheese as well as rich poultry like duck and goose. Off dry Rieslings go wonderfully with Asian spice as well as with sweeter vegetables. When you get into late harvest they are great with desserts. Avoid pairing it with red meat and peppercorns, those things that you standardly think of with a big red, well…they need a big red and would overpower a riesling.
So pick up a riesling and don’t be afraid to spend a little more for it.
So I’m home alone and it’s time for a bite to eat, soooo I pull out my Kindle and Oldman’s Brave New World of Wine and head to the wine store. It’s an unfortunate truth that there are not any small family owned wine shops nearby. I love Khoury’s but they are a 45 min drive in traffic across town. So…I head to Total Wine and Moreknowing that they will have something. I start at the top of the book with Light to Medium Whites and search for a Moschofilero (Mo-sko-FEE-leh-ro), a Greek wine from Southern Greece. I find a bottle by a producer he recommends Boutari at $12.99
I drop it in my bag to ponder as one of my choices.
I head on to the section with German and Austrian wines to look for an Austrian Riesling. They are notably drier and less sweet than German Rieslings and his suggestion of lobster in a cream sauce for a pairing has me thinking of the fresh lobster ravioli that I can pick up at Fresh and Easy for a quick dinner and pairing. I find a bottle from Wachau that is priced at $19.99 and add it to my list to ponder. It goes through my brain that if I spend $20 on a bottle of wine and $6.99 for the dinner to go with it, it seems a bit excessive and maybe I should wait for Michael for that.
So I’m off to check out the Australian Rieslings, when…I find the tasting counter with a Saturday afternoon tasting. They are tasting a Petals Muscato from Germany, Paradise Peak Riesling, B Lovely Riesling, Summit Estates Sweet Merlot, a cabernet that I can’t remember and even if I did I wouldn’t mention because it had absolutely no depth, and a Red Decadence chocolate red wine. I skip the Petals, try the Paradise Peak which is nice for the price, sweet but not too sweet. The B Lovely is sweeter, still nice but a little too sweet for what I wanted. The Sweet Merlot had beautiful depth on the nose. I was happy to leave my nose in the glass there, but then was pretty simple on the palatte. The Decadence was intriguing. It is not cream based like so many other chocolate wines that make my stomach turn. It hits you will cocoa on the nose and then drinks like a dessert wine that is not fortified. I picked up a bottle because I thought it would make for a simple dessert. When I got home, I noticed the corner of the label that says “Made with dark chocolate flavor”. Hmm….so an added chemical flavoring. Oh well.
I asked about Australian rieslings and was pointed to Alternative Whites with a suggestion of Thorn and Clark. This Eden Valley Riesling ran $13.99 and I dropped it in my bag and realize my wine bag is now full and I still have an itch for some Vino Verde. Sooo…The Moschofilero will wait until next time and I grab a bottle of Gazella Vinho Verde.
Driving home I stop at Whole Foods and pick up a sourdough demi, a can of sardines in olive oil and a seasoned squid and mountain vegetable salad from the sushi section. I search for tomatoes kicking myself for not picking one up this morning at the farmers market. All the tomatoes at Whole foods are either conventional or if they are organic are shipped in from Mexico. So, sadly, I forego the tomatoes.
At home I drop the Vinho Verde in the fridge, slice up the demi coat them with olive oil and set them in the broiler, they then get smeared with goat cheese and topped with a sardine. Loki decides sardines might be tasty and begins curling around my legs. And…well here I am.
So…The Vinho Verde is tangy and zippy with green notes (think tart green apple) and a little slate. The squid salad turns out to be a little sweet but pairs nicely. The goat cheese is not as tangy and some I have had, so it misses a little of that edge to pair with the wine, but is still nice. Although as I crunch through the crusty sourdough and salty sardine the creamy tangyness is actually another great layer that plays with the wine it a whole new way. It’s Very nice, but not heaven. Perhaps if I were not sitting in the office in front of a keyboard, but instead on a white washed balcony overlooking the coast with salt spray in the air…well then it would be heaven, so maybe it is all about location and ambience.
Vinho Verde if you are not familiar is a wine from Portugal and translates as Green Wine. It is often a blend of up to 25 grapes from the region with the primary typically Alvarino (Albarino). It sits typically at around 10% alcohol and Oldman suggested that there should be a faucet for Vino Verde next to every grill! It set me back about $7.99 and my local Trader Joe’s has picked it up so I have it within easy reach. Now if they or Total Wine would just pick up a Txakoli!
Okay…Almost done with my dinner, then it’s back to cleaning and planning for tomorrow night’s dinner with Michael, where I hope to pair some great seafood with the Thorn & Clark Mount Crawford Eden Valley 2010 Riesling.
Oh…one last interesting note. All the wines I purchased today had screw caps. Guaranteed, I didn’t spend over $13.99 for any of these wines, but….maybe those poor cork trees will get a bit of a rest!
We spoke with Alex about how he came to wine making.
