Troyes to Troyes, France – Day 9
Today, the Tour runs through the Aube region in a Circle of sorts.
We begin in Troyes, travel through the Forêt d’Orient Natural Park, the Côte des Bar in the Champagne region, the town of Bar-sur-Aube in the Bar-sur-Aubois, and then south into the Barséquanais area.
This leg of the Tour is just under 200 kilometers, but 32.2 kilometers of it is gravel, broken into 14 sections. This will be dangerous and dusty. Luckily, the following day is a rest day, and I’m sure the cyclists will be grateful for the extra recovery time.
Troyes -Half-timbered buildings, an Alley for Cats, and a Gothic Cathedral 700 years in the making!
The buildings here are in the “half-timbered” style of the Middle Ages and Renaissance. They were all rebuilt after a fire in 1524 almost destroyed the entire town.
Off the Rue Champeaux is the Ruelle des Chats (the alley of Cats). This alley is so narrow that the upper floors almost touch, allowing cats to easily cross.
The Basilique Saint-Urbain
This Gothic Church with stone lacework and stained glass has been called the “Parthenon of Champagne.” While only consecrated in 1964, the church has a long history. Troyes was the birthplace of 2 Popes, Urban II and Urban IV. Urban IV began the church on the site of his father’s shop in 1261. This initial Collegiate church was consecrated in 1389 but was still unfinished until the end of the 19th century. The church has its original stained glass windows from 1270.
Forêt d’Orient Natural Park
Leaving Troyes, the cyclists pass through the Forêt d’Orient Natural Park, which has 20,000 hectares of forest with lakes and places for hiking, horseback riding, and mountain biking.
Côte des Bar
The Côte des Bar region is the only major Champagne region in the Aube. It’s 2 hours from Reims and nothing like the central part of Champagne. You find forests, fields, farms, streams, and vineyards here. There is so much more biodiversity than in many other regions of Champagne.
Historically, vineyards here sold their grapes to big houses, but now, more and more artisanal growers and producers are embracing this region. Grower champagnes (champagnes grown and made by the same producer) abound in the area.
All this new thought in the Côte des Bar also lends itself to environmental headway! The growers here, already endowed with incredible biodiversity in the region, have embraced organic and biodynamic farming methods!
While all Champagne grapes are allowed, Pinot Noir dominates. However, a few vignerons are making 100% Pinot Blanc Champagnes!
Bar-sur-Aubois
Bar-sur-Aubois around the town of Bar-sur-Aube is located in the northeast part of the Côte des Bar. With lush undulating hills near the Aube River, this area is cooler. (The riders will be grateful for that!) They will cycle through Bligny, where Château de Bligny grows six of Champagne’s seven permitted grapes. A rarity in Champagne.
Barséquanais
This region around Bar-sur-Seine is known as Barséquanais. This is in the southwest portion of the Côte des Bar. Here, there are hillsides steeper than most in Champagne, and you find multiple tributaries to the Seine River, including the Ource and Arce Rivers that our cyclists will cross flowing through the region. These hills and rivers create multiple aspects and microclimates throughout the area.
Over at Wine Folly they have a great writeup on the region https://winefolly.com/deep-dive/hottest-champagne-region-cote-des-bar/
and there is a great article on the World of Fine Wine site https://worldoffinewine.com/homepage-featured-articles/cote-des-bar-champagne
Here are a few other links for you for further reading.
For more information on all of the Stage’s of the “Tour de France”
Wine along the “Tour de France” – 2024
Robin Renken is a wine writer and Certified Specialist of Wine and WSET 3 Certified. She and her husband Michael travel to wine regions interviewing vineyard owners and winemakers and learning the stories behind the glass.
When not traveling they indulge in cooking and pairing wines with food at home in Las Vegas.
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